How to Get Inner Line Permit for Ladakh – Cost & Procedure

by Vargis.Khan

road trip to ladakh

Ladakh is a beautiful yet sensitive area because of the constant conflicts between India and China in this region. Not all parts of Ladakh are accessible to civilians. Several of the famous tourist destinations are considered part of the Inner line which means that in order to visit there, you will have to obtain an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh. In this article, I will provide information on how to get an inner line permit for Ladakh.

Please note that in this article, I am only covering the cost and procedure to get the permit. For other details on visiting Ladakh like how to reach, where to stay, local commute, and what to see, please take a look at How to Plan a Trip to Leh Ladakh – A Complete Travel Guide.

What is an Inner Line Permit

Ladakh Inner Line Permit, or ILP for Ladakh, is an Indian government-issued document to Indian citizens from outside the state. It is a permit to be allowed entry to a restricted area for a limited period of time. Places located near LOC (Pakistan) & LAC (China) require civilians to acquire this permit in order to visit.

The sole purpose of this permit is to keep a check on movement in these areas. A permit is not required for J&K residents and children under 12 years of age.

Recently an online portal was launched by the authorities where you can apply for an Inner Line permit online. Please read How to Apply for Ladakh Inner Line Permit Online for more details.

Places that require Inner Line Permit for Ladakh

  • All of Nubra Valley : Khardung La, Khardung, Khalsar, Diskit, Hunder, Turtuk, Sumur, Takashi, Panamik and Warshi
  • Pangong Tso : Chang La, Durbuk, Tangtse and Spangmik
  • Changthang Valley: Man, Merak, Chushul, Loma, Koyul, Hanle, Nyoma, Mahe, Sumdo
  • Phobrang and Marsimak La
  • Leh to Tso Moriri: Chumathang, Mahe, Sumdo, Karzok (Tso Moriri)
  • Leh to Batalik: Khalsi, Damkhar, Skurbuchan, Dargoo, Hanoo, Dah, Batalik
  • Tangyar Trek : Leh – Saboo – Diggar La – Tangyar (Nubra Valley)
  • Agham Shyok Route
  • Wari La

Places that you do not need ILP for

  • Sightseeing with Leh City: Leh Palace, Shanti Stupa, Shey Palace, Hemis, etc
  • Zanskar Valley: Sankoo, Panikhar, Parkachik, Rangdum, Padum
  • Suru Valley: Phey, Nimmoo, Alchi, Likir, Lamayuru, Mulbekh
  • Places on Srinagar Leh Highway
  • Places on Manali Leh Highway

Where to get an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh

This permit is issued at the city’s DC office which remains open from 9 AM till 5 PM, Monday to Saturday. However, ILPs are only issued between 10 AM till 3 PM.

Also read: What to see in Ladakh – A Complete List

Where to obtain the Application and ILP form

This form is available at the DC’s office, at a photocopy shop located on the office premises. Alternatively, you can inquire at your hotel because usually all the hotels and guest houses keep a copy of it for their guests.

I am attaching here a scanned copy of both ILP and application that you can just print out and fill with the required information. Click on the thumbnail to view in view size or right-click and save it to your hard disk.

inner line permit for Ladakh inner line permit for Ladakh

Documents Required

A self-attested photocopy of a photo identity proof of the applicant is required to be attached with the application form. The identity card can only be a government-issued one, ie Driving License, Passport, Pan Card, Voter ID, Aadhar card, etc.

While the driving license mostly works, the officials may ask you for an alternate photo ID so it is wise to carry a secondary identity proof as well.

Cost of Inner Line Permit for Ladakh

Charges for the Inner Line Permit for Ladakh are divided into three parts. Total cost includes Rs. 400 per person for environment tax, Rs. 20 per person per day for wildlife protection fee and Rs. 100 per person per day as charity towards a Red Cross society.

So for example, if you need a permit for 5 days for two people, the total cost would be Rs. 1200 [800 for environment tax + 200 for Red Cross Donation + 200 (20 x 2 x 5) for wildlife protection fee].

Depending on the number of people you are traveling with, and the number of days for your trip, you can use the same calculation to come up with the total amount you will pay.

Validity of Inner Line Permit for Ladakh

The Inner line permit can be procured only for a maximum of 3 weeks for Indian citizens. However though it is not a one-time entry pass, which means that you can, after procuring ILP, visit that particular region as many times as you wish, as long as the permit is still valid.

There are several check posts where you will be needing to submit your permit so do not submit the original anywhere. Keep several photocopies and submit one wherever required.

How to Apply for Inner Line Permit for Ladakh

The full name of the applicant and father is required to be filled in the application form. Apart from mentioning your permanent address, you will also need to mention the name of the hotel you are staying at in Ladakh.

Also read: A Detailed & Comprehensive Road Map of Ladakh

While filling out the application form, please carefully mention the full names of the places that you wish to visit and the dates when you will be visiting these areas.

Apart from filling out the ILP form, you are also required to submit an application to the DC office expressing your interest to visit the areas. Mention all the places in the application form too, it should be in sync with your ILP form.

If you are planning to visit Tso Moriri via Chushul from Pangong Tso, you will have to pen down the entire route on the application form which means that you will have to name every place that is located on this route. Or else you may get sent back from a check post. Places on this route are Man – Merak – Chushul – Tsaga – Loma – Nyoma – Hanle and Tso Moriri.


Earlier a person was required to meet the DC or ADC of Ladakh in person and get the ILP signed but this procedure has not changed. Now you do not need to step into the DC office anymore but can get the ILP stamped at the room on the left-hand side as you enter the DC office.

As per the new process, you submit the form at the first desk, and then pay the permit fee at the next desk, then move on to the next desk to pay the Red Cross fee, and finally, pay the environment fee at the last desk. After you have paid the environment fee, the person at the last desk will stamp the ILP and hand it over to you.

Also read: When is the Best time to visit Ladakh?

If you have an entire group or say 3 or 4 people, not everyone has to visit the DC office to obtain the permit. One person can submit the form and get ILP for everyone. But he will have to carry attested ID proofs of everyone whose name is on the permit. It may take you anywhere from half an hour to 3 hours to get ILP stamped so please try to reach as early as possible.

Applying through an agent or hotel

In case you are on a tight schedule, you can call your hotel or a travel agent and ask them to procure an ILP for you for a small commission of Rs. 100 – 200 per person. You will however need to fax or email them a copy of your self-attested photo identity proofs.

Inner Line Permit for Ladakh – Conclusion

I hope this information on how to get an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh was useful. If you have any further questions or need any other details, please feel free to ask in the comments section below or at our Community Forum, and I will be glad to answer.

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Rohit Sah October 14, 2022 - 4:40 pm

Very informative.Thank you

Vargis.Khan October 15, 2022 - 9:34 am

Thank you for taking the time to drop a note

Naga Subramaniam March 29, 2024 - 9:02 am

Gr8 blog. Keep it going.

Vargis.Khan March 29, 2024 - 1:11 pm

Thank you !!!

Shebi June 18, 2021 - 5:07 pm

Is it mandatory to obtain ILP for other state government officers on duty at Jammu

Vargis.Khan June 19, 2021 - 7:15 am

Yes it is

Local Sightseeing in Leh, Arranging Permits, Hospital & Rest - Vargis Khan November 1, 2020 - 8:27 pm

[…] Also Read: How to get Inner Line Permit in Ladakh […]

Ghulam Hasnain April 17, 2020 - 3:32 am

Assalam Alekum Vargis Bhai.

Thanks A lot for the crucial information. I want to know that one ILP is fine for all the region where permit is required?

Pinaki Das March 14, 2020 - 5:24 pm

Hi Vargis,
I am from Bangalore. I am planning to visit leh in 20th June via Srinagar and starting from Amritsar and concluding in new Delhi on 4th July. I am planning to complete the full Srinagar-leh-nubra-pangong lake-tso morir-manali-shimla-new Delhi route.

I want to do self drive in a zoomcar for this circuit. However with the restrictions of it being used in leh and I don’t want to park zoomcar in leh with a hotel booked just for it… And my ladakh itinerary itself is for 7 nights. And I am travelling with my wife. She can drive too.

So, can you please suggest some better and economic itinerary? And how to get around that restrictions in leh ?

Will it be a good idea to transport my own private car from Bangalore to Delhi and get started ? As we are traveling solo it will give us the flexibility … Please correct me if I am really thinking out of the box.

Or taking local taxis and parking my zoomcar in hotel without me being in leh will be economically and psychologically less streching?

Vargis.Khan March 14, 2020 - 6:38 pm

There is no other way around this Pinaki. But if you only have 7 days, there isn’t much time to drive anyway. You will have to fly in and out of Leh. A road trip needs at least 10 days to and from Delhi.

Kane September 16, 2019 - 12:53 am

Hello Mr. Khan. Excellent information on Ladakh on your blog, thanks for it! I am arriving in Leh on 28th September, 2019 and flying out on 8th of October,2019. This is my first time in Ladakh and reading about the winter conditions which start in October, I am in two minds now. Can you please help me with a good itinerary for this duration? It will be a big help, thanks 🙂

Vargis.Khan September 16, 2019 - 4:20 am

How will you be traveling locally in Ladakh Kane?

Tourist Attractions in Ladakh : A Comprehensive List - Vargis Khan August 30, 2019 - 3:21 am

[…] permit can either be applied for online or procured in person from DM office in Leh. Please read How to Obtain Inner Line Permit for Ladakh for further […]

Avik Dutta July 20, 2019 - 11:21 am

We r planning our trip October 5on wards from jammu, at that time ILP is available or not and is the manali road is open? Anad can we get the permission of all places.

Vargis.Khan July 20, 2019 - 5:11 pm

Yes to all your questions

Aaditya Tiwari June 23, 2019 - 5:09 am

I am travelling from srinagar to leh .Then leh to nubra valley and want to pangong from nubra valley. My question is that can we go manali from pangong.

Vargis.Khan June 23, 2019 - 3:30 pm

Yes but not in a single day if that is what you are asking. You will need at least 2 days to do that.

R.Narayanan August 10, 2021 - 12:05 pm

Why Red Cross is forefully collecting Rs.100 per tourist?

Adhul April 9, 2019 - 10:13 am

Planning a trek from manali to leh about 490km do we need ILP for this…. How to obtain it.?

Vargis.Khan May 27, 2019 - 3:38 am

ILP is required after you reach Ladakh. It is not needed for traveling from Manali to Leh

Szymon May 28, 2022 - 10:33 am

then if I want to reach Khardung La from Leh, I need to get an ILP? How long does it takes to get it?

chanchal kumar sarkar February 15, 2019 - 1:24 pm

Hi Vargis,
please guide how I can book HPTDC bus ticket from Leh to Manali for three person in September,2019 third week

Vargis.Khan February 15, 2019 - 2:52 pm

See the post below please. It is for last year though. This year’s schedule will only be out after the highway opens.

Vinay Panchang December 4, 2018 - 9:29 am

Hello Vargis….
I really had a glimpse of entire Ladakh via your write-up.
Can’t thank you much for spending your time for this useful gesture.
I am an adventure / driving freak and have always dreamt of visiting Ladakh.. and here I am with some time in hand in Jan end… 29th Jan to 1st or 2nd Feb to be precise in 2019.

I am flying ALONE…

How much do you recommend that I should / can / may visit Ladakh or not.
If possible, can you please tell me that even if I plan to travel during those days, what all should I look forward to?
I will want to hire a bike locally (if I will be allowed) which will be great for me as I am a cinematographer and want to be there exclusively to fill my heart with the breathtaking views and jaw dropping landscapes (which obviously everyone go there for).

thanks and regards,
Vinay. (Pune) | +91-9923306969 (watsapp + calling)

Vargis.Khan December 4, 2018 - 1:30 pm

Hi Vinay – Though you are short on time but you will still be able to visit major tourist areas like Nubra and Pangong. Renting a bike could be challenging due to all the snow in Feb so only do it if you are sure that you can handle it on slipper roads, otherwise you will have to rent a private taxii.

Vinay Panchang December 4, 2018 - 5:56 pm

Thank you Vargis for your quick revert!
May you please refer me (if you have any) to a fellow who can give me or may have a Jeep instead of a taxi car, which I may hire during those dates?

Vargis.Khan December 4, 2018 - 7:37 pm

Bhai self drive rentals are rare in Ladakh but you can try contacting Nasir at 9906229203. He runs his taxi in Ladakh and may be able to help.

satyanjai yadav May 15, 2019 - 12:47 am

Dear vergis, I am 65 year old and wish to visit Tso moriri and Hanel. I wish to come on Thursday and catch a bus to Tso on Friday. I wish to come via bus from Tso and catch BUs for Hanle from J and K police post and return by bus on sunday from Hanle to Leh. I wish to take shred taxi for Pongong on Monday and return back on Tuesday. Whether this is feasible. Inner line permit, I shall procure on Thursday.

Vargis.Khan May 15, 2019 - 1:07 pm

Hello Mr. Yadav – There are no shared cabs available on Chushul and Hanle route. You will have to book a private cab for that.

Jay Gulgulia May 17, 2019 - 7:04 pm

if i travell with local buses do i need to take inner line permit

satyanjai yadav May 18, 2019 - 4:47 am

Vergis Bhai,
i want to know….can i drop from bus in the midst of Tso moriri-Leh route and catch another bus for hanle at J&k police Check post near chusul

Indranil Sadhukhan November 8, 2018 - 12:57 pm


I am planning to visit Leh in Sept 2019.I have already planned an itinerary, please suggest whether any change is required or not.

21-09-2019: Kolkata (CCU) to New Delhi (DEL) by Air-Asia Flight I5-547 (Departure 22:40 Hrs)
22-09-2019: Arrival 01:20 Hrs (DEL), New Delhi (DEL) to Leh (IXL) by Jet Airways 9W-635 (Departure 05:40 Hrs), Arrival Leh (07:05 Hrs) (Stay at hotel & permit)
23-09-2019: Local sight seeing (Hemis Gompha, Thickcey Gompha, Sindhu Darshan, Magnetic hill)
24-09-2019: Departure Leh for Nubra valley & Turtuk via Khardungla pass (World’s highest Motorable road (18380 ft), Diskit Monastery stay at Nubra valley / Hunder
25-09-2019: Deparure Nubra Valley for Pangong Lake via Changla Pass, Shayok Valley stay at Pangong / Spangmik
26-09-2019: Departure Pangong for Tsomoriri, stay at Tsomoriri
27-09-2019: Departure Tsomoriri for Kargil via Mulbek, Moonland, Drass Lamayuru, Kargil border, stay at Kargil
28-09-2019: Departure Kargil for Leh, stay at Leh
29-9-2019: Buffer day, stay at Leh
30-09-2019: Flight from Leh (IXL) to New Delhi (DEL) by Jet Airways 9W-636 (Deparure 07:40 Hrs), Arrival New Delhi (09:20 Hrs), New Delhi (DEL) to Kolkata (CCU) by Air-India AI-20 (Departure 14:25 Hrs), Arrival Kolkata (16:40 Hrs). Tour ends

Vargis.Khan November 8, 2018 - 1:01 pm

Hi Indranil – How will you be traveling around locaclly in Ladakh after you land there?

Also, if you take the road via Shyok to reach Pangong then Chang La Pass won’t be there. That is a different rooute. Pangong to Moriri in a day is very long. You cannot do Moriri to Kargil in a single day.

Andrea August 12, 2018 - 11:49 pm

Hi Vargis,
Can someone with a EU passport obtain an ILP at Manali?

Vargis.Khan August 13, 2018 - 1:04 pm

Hi Andrea – ILP cannot be obtained at Manali, only from Leh city. And foreign nationals actually have to get PAP for Ladakh. ILP is only for Indian nationals.

Suhas August 8, 2018 - 6:33 am

Hello Vargis Bhai,
Can’t thank you enough for this beautiful blog.
We need your help in listing out places to obtain inner line permit.
We will be going to Nubra but, until Hunder and we will be taking Agham Shyok road to reach Pangong lake the next day. We will be returning back to Leh later.
So totally, we should be adding the below places. Correct?
• Khardung La,
• Khardung,
• Khalsar,
• Diskit,
• Hunder,
• Agham
• Shyok
• Tangtse
• Lukung
• Pangong
• Durbuk
• Chang La
• Sakti
• Karu
Did I miss any place and should we add any other places just in case?
Thank you very much for your help.

Vargis.Khan August 8, 2018 - 1:15 pm

Hi Suhas Bhai, Thank you for your kind words. You got all of the places, nothing missing.

Rahul August 1, 2018 - 2:47 am

Hi Vargis Bhai,

Your blog has really helped me in planning my trip to Leh ladakh. Great work. Thanks for all the information.

My trip would include Leh-Nubra-pangong-tso moriri via hanle.I had a few doubts about ILPs-
1) Is it ok if we do not have prior hotel bookings for the places that require ILPs?

2)We are 3 people traveling. So do I need three separate ILPs or one would do?

3) What are the places where we need to mention the entire route? Also it would be really helpful if you could share the route as well?


Vargis.Khan August 1, 2018 - 3:09 am

Hi Rahul Bhai,

1. No you do not need to have prior hotel bookings
2. You can write name of all three people on the same permit
3. See the following three posts please.

Samrat July 23, 2018 - 3:42 pm

Vargis Khan Ji,

I’m planning to complete 5500 km solo cycle expedition from Warshi Village to Kanyakumari and then entire Sri Lanka. As per my plan I will reach Leh on 1st September 2018. From their I will reach Warshi which will be my start point. Kindly guide me about the process to obtain the ILP and weather condition during that particular time.

Vargis.Khan July 23, 2018 - 7:36 pm

Hi Samrat – The ILP process is the same that I explained in the article above.

Adheip July 22, 2018 - 4:54 pm

You are making research look so easy here ! thanks a ton for all the time and effort you take with this.
Planning on a visit this August end and i have some questions.
Below is the tentative itinerary
– Day 1 – Reach Ladakh and accalamatize
– Day 2 – Local sightseeing / short rented bike rides around Leh
– Day 3 – Leh to Nubra via Khardung La (rented cab)
– Day 4 – Spend the day in Nubra – Stay at Diskit/Sumur
– Day 5 – Nubra to Pangong (not sure on which route the cab driver would take)
– Day 6 – Pangong to Leh
– Day 7 – Leh Local Signtseeing on rented bike
– Day 8 – Exit Leh

Does this sound like a reasonable relaxed itinerary ? And i have some questions
– Regarding Permit, what kind of permit would i require ? The confusion is on what places to mention in the permit.
– Scenic wise – would you choose Diskit or Sumur ?
– Suggestions on staty in Leh / Nubra(Diskit/Sumur) & Pangong : Do not have budget restrictions but would like the stay to be comfortable and a scenic location.

Thank you and appreciate a response 🙂

Vargis.Khan July 22, 2018 - 6:51 pm

Thanks Adheip. Yes your itinerary is OK. For Nubra to Pangong, it will be the Shyok. You will need the regular ILP and just name of the places you are staying for the night at, that will suffice. Dikist is better to stay as it has better and more options in terms of hotels and guest houses.

sankeerth nedunoori July 22, 2018 - 12:31 pm

Hi vargis..I regularly frequent this blog….we (my wife and myself) are landing in Leh on 7th August..planning to visit kardungla, changla, pangong and nubra valley….will be leaving leh on 15th August…planning to hire a bike on rental…could you please suggest a suitable that we can maximise the sightseeing placing in limited span…thank you

Vargis.Khan July 22, 2018 - 7:00 pm

Hi Sankeerth – You can plan like this.

7 – Leh. Rest, arrange permits and bikes
8 – Leh to Diskit
9 – Diskit to Turtuk
10 – Turtuk to Panamik
11 – Panamik to Pangong via Shyok
12 – Pangong to Leh via Chang La
13 – Leh to Kargil
14 – Kargil to Leh via Batalik if you get the permit
15 – Fly Out

Or like this

7 – Leh. Rest, arrange permits and bikes
8 – Leh to Diskit
9 – Diskit to Turtuk to Panamik
10 – Panamik to Pangong via Shyok
11 – Pangong to Hanle
12 – Hanle to Karzok (Tso Moriri)
13 – Karzok to Leh via Tso Kar
14 – Leh to Lamayuru and back to Leh
15 – Fly Out

Martinco July 19, 2018 - 10:06 am

I have Touris Visa (not e-Visa).

I will travel alone by bicycle from Manali to Leh. I know – permit is not required. Next I want cycle to Khardong La and Chang La and if is it possible – Marsimik La.

1. Is it possible to obtain a ILP for one person (not in group of min. four). If yes – Need I a Travel Agent? (because in form on -> Overseas Client field “CHOOSE YOUR AGENT” is mandatory)
2. Is it possible to reach Marsimik La?

(I’m very experienced bicycle explorer – road conditions, altitude, etc.. isn’t problem)

Vargis.Khan July 19, 2018 - 1:14 pm

You will need to obtain protected area permit and not ILP. See the link below for details. It will not be allowed for a single person and Marismik La too is off limits, cannot go that way.

Chandan Dutta Gupta July 18, 2018 - 6:07 pm

Dear Vergis,
We the 4 friends planned to visit leh in month of October. Our iternity as below
day 1- Fly to leh
Day 2- leh
dey3- leh to hunder
day4- hundar
day 5- hunder to Marak via agham-shyok-durbuk-spangnik
day 6- marak to hanle via chushul-loma
day7- hanle to kyun Tso & Lam tso and back to hanle
Day8- Hanle
day 9- hanle to Tso-Murari
day 10- Tso-Murari
dat 11- Tso -Murari to Leh Via Tso kar
Day12 leh

Is the Tour Plan is Correct !!
Can You give me the contact no of a driver for this Route!!
Thanks in Advence.
Chandan Dutta Gupta

Vargis.Khan July 18, 2018 - 7:47 pm

Hi Chandan, The plan looks good but you may not be allowed to go towards Kyun and Lam Tso, rest is all OK. Please take to Nasir in Leh @ 9906229203 regarding cab.

AMIT BANSAL July 12, 2018 - 12:03 pm

hello Vargis Bhai. your blogs are super awesome for travelling to Leh. travelling to leh from 2nd sept 2018 to 8th sept 2018 from Delhi by Flights. we are a group of 6 – 2 adults in early 30’s, 2 adults in late 50’s , 5 yr old kid and 14 months old kid.

is it safe to travel with 14 months old kid?
check our itinieary below :-

2nd sept – reach leh by 8 am. full day rest in hotel for acclimitization.

3rd sept – local sightseeing shanti stupa. leh palace. diksit and hemis monestary.

4th sept – leh to nubra valley. stay at nubra.

5th sept- nubra to leh.

6th sept – leh to pangong to leh. day trip. we are actually worried to stay at pangong with an infant.

7th sept – zanskar confluence. pathhar sahib. magnetic hill.

8th sept – early morning flight back to delhi

shall we carry oxygen cylinders?

please suggest any changes if required in the itinieary.

Vargis.Khan July 12, 2018 - 1:50 pm

Hi Amit, Thank you for your kind words.

1. Itinerary – It is good, no change required. Just make sure that you start early from Leh to Pangong though, it could be a long journey coming back to Leh the same day.

2. Oxygen Cylinders – Not really required unless any of the travelers has any breathing related ailments or any other medical history.
3. Travel with Infant – I would not really recommend bringing a 14 months old to Ladakh but if you do, then you musts consult a pediatrician before you go..

Rashi sen July 5, 2018 - 6:27 am

Hello Vargis,

We have planned our trip from Pune to ladhakh.we are 4 friends (2 man,2woman).
We are reaching Leh by flight from pune on 15 July .our plan is 15th to 23rd July .we will leave Leh on 24th July by flight to Pune.
We have plan like after reaching Leh in 15th July we will do sightseeing as that day is Sunday we will take permission on 16 July.
17 July : will go pangong early morning (as of now by bike but as suggested by some people we are thinking to take a cab because it’s a long route from leh to pangong and we are just 4 people.we will take night stay here.
18th July: back to Leh from pangong and night stay here.

19th July:–leave from leh to nubra valley by bike (also thikinth go by cab if bike is not suitable).will stay at nubra 2 days for sightseening and other water sports activities.

21july: back to nubra to leh.will stay at Leh.
22nd July: will leave from leh to TSO and stay over night there.
23rd July: will leave from TSo to Leh .will stay overnight there.
24th July: leave to pune

Could u please how is our plan and how we can we can visit/ see more places in these 9 days.

Thanks in advance….
Waiting for ur response in mail or chat.

Vargis.Khan July 5, 2018 - 2:15 pm

Hi Rashi – Your plan looks good. The only other thing I will suggest is that on 16th, after arranging bikes and permits, take a ride on Srinagar Leh highway until Lamayuru and return to Leh by evening. On the way, you can visit Indus Zanskar confluence, magnetic hill, Gurudwara Patthar Sahib etc.

Also, if possible, do Nubra valley first and go to Pangong later. It is better that way in terms of acclimatization.

Rashi Sen July 6, 2018 - 5:20 am

Thanks so much. Actually we have booking at pangong on 17th and nubra as well so can’t change it.

Vargis.Khan July 6, 2018 - 3:15 pm

That is all right then. Your plan is definitely doable. Have a fun trip 🙂

Ankith Patil July 1, 2018 - 6:06 pm


Vargis.Khan July 1, 2018 - 6:08 pm

You can get it from the office as well

Ankith Patil July 1, 2018 - 6:11 pm

Thank you bhai…for ur kind regards

Vargis.Khan July 1, 2018 - 6:12 pm

You are welcome Bhai !!!

Rahul July 5, 2018 - 1:40 pm

Hello sir
We are planning to start Ladakh tour from morning 12th August 2018 (Sunday) by rented car from Manali and intented to cover Leh Nubra valley and pangong and return back to manali on 18th August( Night) ; so please suggest routes and places to see
Thank you

Vargis.Khan July 5, 2018 - 1:57 pm

Rahul – If you rent a car from Manali, it will not be allowed for sightseeing in Ladakh. You will then have to rent another cab from Leh city as well.

Afais June 30, 2018 - 8:40 am

Varghis bhai


Vargis.Khan June 30, 2018 - 4:25 pm

Bhai inner line permit is needed on per person basis and not per vehicle. So even if you were crossing the check post on foot or going by a Bus, you will still need the permit.

Vargis.Khan June 24, 2018 - 3:41 am

Below is an update on permits this year.

1. Permits to Domestic travellers are now being given from Permit Office, TIC ( Tourist Information Center, near J&K Bank, Main Bazaar). Foreigners still need to go to DC office near Polo Ground.
2. You have to fill the form online only, if you are applying in self. I am not sure about the process if you want to apply through an agent.
3. Take printout of the online permit and carry copies along with you. One each for Nubra, Pangong, Tso morriri and Hanle.
4. And yes permits are being given for Chushul, Tsagala, Loma,Hanle. They will sign and stamp your printouts and will take the required payments as mentioned in the portal.
5. For Hanle, You will have to further go to DC office. Take a copy of the permit that you received from TIC and DC office will keep a copy and will further stamp your permit ” permission to visit Hanle”. That would make your permit process complete.
6. Keep at least 3 copies of Hanle permit along with you while traveling.

K Ganesan June 4, 2018 - 6:12 am

Dear Vargis,

I’m a Malaysian holding (OCI) card with my Chennai friend. Planning to visit Leh on 10/June. My tour plan as follows ..

10/6 – Arrive in leh (local sight seeing)
11 & 12/6 – Nubra valley (2 night stay) (renting car)
13/6 – Leh (local sigh seeing)
14/6 – Pangong Tso lake (night stay) (renting car)
15 & 16/6 – Leh (
17/6 – Leh to Delhi

Please let me know:
We’ re not hiring tour agent, planning to engage local driver upon arrival for Nubra valley.
Other days in Leh, wanted rent bike for local sigh seeing. Need your advise on ILP /PAP and other fees.



Vargis.Khan June 24, 2018 - 4:00 am

Hello Mr. Ganesan – Sorry I could not answer your question in time. Was traveling myself and have just returned.

Priyaz Mishra May 31, 2018 - 2:37 pm

Vargis bhai, is the permit same for both bikes and cars? Also we are planning to hire the bikes once we reach Leh . So in case we want to get the ILP issued through some agent/hotel, would we need the reg. no of that bike or only our details and the date of the journey would be enough? Also thank you for all the information that you have so systematically shared about the ILP.

Vargis.Khan June 24, 2018 - 4:02 am

Hi Priyaz – The permit is issued on per person basis, not per vehicle so you do not actually need the details of the bike. It is your details that will be required.

Zeeshan Aga May 30, 2018 - 6:08 pm

Vargis Bhai, planning a trip for 5 days in September first week from Bangalore. The idea is to go directly via flight to Leh and then bike around there in rentals.. Do you suggest is do-able?

Vargis.Khan June 24, 2018 - 4:03 am

Hi Zeeshan Bhai – Yes it is definitely doable. You will be able to cover major tourist attractions in 5 days for sure.

Barathy May 17, 2018 - 3:44 pm

Hello Mr Khan,

Can i know does foreigners able to apply the ILP??

Vargis.Khan May 17, 2018 - 6:43 pm

Hello Barathy – Yes foreign nationals too need to get the permit. However, you will have to get a PAP, Protected area permit. Please see the post below for details.

CHANDRAKANTH K May 16, 2018 - 7:55 am

Hi Vargis ji i have booked my tks from delhi to leh on 16th june 2018 morning and return on 25th June 2018. can you please suggest an ideal itenary i wish to rent a self driven bike. Thanks in advance

Vargis.Khan May 17, 2018 - 2:34 am

Hello Chandrakanth Ji,

You can travel in the following manner.

16 – Leh. Rest and arrange permits
17 – Leh to Kargil
18 – Kargil to Leh
19 – Leh to Diskit
20 – Diskit to Pangong via Shyok road
21 – Pangong to Leh
22 – Leh to Tso Moriri via Chumathang
23 – Tso Moriri to Leh via Tso Kar
24 – Rest in Leh (Buffer Day) – If you are suffering from AMS on second day of trip as well, then use this day as 17th and stay in Leh for one more day until you feel better.
25 – Fly Out

CHANDRAKANTH K May 17, 2018 - 6:05 am

Thanks a ton vargis ji

Vargis.Khan May 17, 2018 - 6:23 pm

You are welcome Chandrakanth Ji

Jaswant Singh May 8, 2018 - 6:05 pm

Hello Sir
Thank you very much sir for all your information. I’m reading all the above comments from you and will remember most of it. We are planning to go to Leh for the first time. We have seen Srinagar,Gulmarg all near by places during our Amarnath ji yatra days but this time planning for Leh. Below is my itinerary. We are four friends and have my Ford Figo petrol car which I think can do the journey. Please tell me if we are planning right with this my small car.
Day 1 26 May Chandigarh to Srinagar Night stay.
Day 2 27 May Srinagar to Kargil night stay.( how is zozila pass )
Day 3 28 May Kargil to Leh ( can we go by btalik is it more suitable for my car or by old road to Leh )
Day 4 29 May Local sight seeing + ILP For Nubra Valley and pangong tso lake.
Day 5 30 May Leh to Nubra valley night stay ( what we can add in this day please advise)
Day 6 31 May Nubra to Leh
Day 7 1 June Leh to pangong tso lake night stay at pangong tso lake.
Day 8 2 June pangong to Kargil ( if possible)
Day 9 3 june kargil to Chandigarh ( if possible) otherwise back to Chandigarh on Day 10.
Do we need ILP for Nubra Valley and pangong lake from Leh only ? Please sir send me your valueable advice and we will surely change it according to your advice. I will wait for your email sir.
Wish you good day.

Mahendra Gangurde May 6, 2018 - 1:22 pm

Dear Vargis,

Really really very helpful articles for planning LEH-LADAKH trip. A big Thanks to Vargis Sir. Lot of information I found and whihc is very much helpful to plan a trip.

I am planning to visit leh-ladakh around end of July or early August 2018, below is the my itinerary. go through with it and suggest me if any changes are required in it.
Also suggest me if I can add some more places into it within same time (10 Days).

Day 1 Mumbai to Srinagar stay at Srinagar travel By Air
Day 2 Srinagar to Kargil stay at Kargil around 205Kms and will take 6 hrs to travel
Day 3 Kargil to Leh stay at Leh around 217Kms will take 6 hrs to reach
Day 4 Leh to Nubra Valley to Diskit stay at Leh/Diskit 115 kms will take 5 Hrs to reach Diskit
Day 5 Leh Sightseeing stay at Leh (Sightseeing / ILP)
Day 6 Leh to Pangong lake stay at Pangong lake 223kms and will take 6 hrs to reach pangong lake
Day 7 Pangong lake to Leh stay at Leh around 223Kms and will take 6 hrs to reach
Day 8 Leh to Lamayuru. stay at Lamayuru 115Kms and will take 3 Hrs to reach here
Day 9 Lamayuru to Srinagar stay at Srinagar around 305Kms and will take 8 Hrs to reach
Day 10 Srinagar to Mumbai By Air

1) I have a doubt on Day 4 plan, that return to leh is suitable or stay at Diskit is still better option.

2) I also want to know about cost and options available for rent a bikes from Srinagar.
I also heard that bikes booked from srinagar are not allowed to travel in leh-ladakh region. Is it true or now the things are changed?


Vargis.Khan May 7, 2018 - 1:05 am

Thanks Mahendra Bhai.

Yes Srinagar rented bikes are not allowed in Ladakh for sightseeing. You can only use it to reach Leh but will have to rent another bike there for visiting Nubra and Pangong. You will have to leave your Srinagar rented bike parked at a hotel in Leh. For renting bike in Srinagar, please contact Faisal at 9596410670.

Plan your itinerary like this.

1. Mumbai to Srinagar
2. Srinagar to Kargil
3. Kargil to Leh
4. Leh. Rest and arrange permits
5. Leh to Diskit
6. Diskit to Pangong via Shyok
7. Pangong to Leh
8. Leh to Lamayuru / Kargil
9. Lamayuru / Kargil to Srinagar
10. Srinagar to Mumbai

S Chatterjee April 23, 2018 - 7:12 am

Hi Sir,
I am planning to make a trip to leh ladakh by road from srinagar from 12th October’2018 onwards please help to set my eternity included gulmarg, sonmarg, pehelgaon, drass, kargil and other places of ladakh as per your suggestion. We are 2 families and one 5 years old boy. We already arrange a guest house near leh airport free of cost. Now want your suggestion & help for planning the trip and want help for hiring of car for entire tour from jammu. Please mention dos 7 dont’s at that time cause starting of winter there my be too much cold weather. Is there any chances for snowfall at that time? At which places we got snow under foot step?

Vargis.Khan April 23, 2018 - 3:18 pm

Mr. Chatterjee, How many days do you have for the trip? And will you be traveling the entire route by private taxis?

niranjan April 16, 2018 - 2:19 pm

Hello Vargis,

I am planning to travel to Leh in May-June 2018, (May last week and June 1st week). I have planned a road trip from Pune and will be travelling in a Mahindra TUV 300 (1500 CC, 80 BHP, 210 NM Torque, Back wheel drive, 2×4) with my wife. Given below is my itinerary, request you to please advise if the itinerary is fine OR should I make any changes. I have made a couple of bookings but will make further bookings post your advice.

May 25 – Leave from Pune
May 26 – Reach and stay at Delhi; booking confirmed
May 27 – Delhi – Srinagar; booking confirmed
May 28 – Srinagar – Leh (Srinagar – Sonmarg – Kargil – Leh); booking confirmed
May 29 – Stay at Leh (for ILP, other site seeing and acclimatisation)
May 30 – Leh – Diskit (Leh – Khardungla – Khalsar – Sumur – Panamik; come back to Khalsar ( Diksit – Hunder)
May 31- Diskit – Spangmik (Diskit – Khalasar – Agam – Shyok/Wari La, “will add places here as per the route suggested by you” – Spangmik). I have read your other articles, and I believe that Shyok route will be closed this season (i.e. permit may not be issued), Wari- La route I need your advise to determine if my vehicle will be handle the route, and also will I get a permit for that route. Hence, please advise which route should I be taking.
June 1 – Spangmik – Hanle, again as per your article, Hanle will be off limits, and hence, looking for your suggestion as to how can I utilise this day, Or should I go back to Leh.
June 2 – Hanle – Tso Moriri, require your advise on the route to take, as here also I believe there are some permit issues.My earlier paln was to go directly to Tso Moriri from Hanle. If not Hanle then can I Directly go from Spangmik to Tso Moriri.
June 3 – Tso Moriri – Sarchu/Jispa. Also, open for suggestions as I have not made any bookings here. If there is any other place I will be open to exploring that, my next destination is going to be Manali.
June 4 – Sarchu/Jispa – Manali (via Rohtang pass and Solang valley). Please advise if I will need any permits here. As per my understanding since I am coming from Leh towards the Rohtang pass, I may not require any other permit, but request you to please confirm if my understanding is correct; booking confirmed.
June 5 – Stay and Manali, do activities like river rafting, local sightseeing, Manikarnan (if possible); booking confirmed.
June 6 – Manali – Solan; booking confirmed, visit Shimla, Kasauli
June 7 – Proceed towards Jaipur and onward to Pune.

Also, please advice if this route is safe for travel (not due to natural causes). I have driving experience and long road trips under the belt, but Leh -Ladakh is going to be a complete different ball game. With regards to fuel I have a tank capacity of 60 litres and I plan to carry additional 60 litres in reserve (by cans/drum). Daily I plan to leave by the first light of day so that I can reach the destination well before sun set and with ease. Hence, the ambitious plan.

Looking forward to your advice and suggestions. Thank you in advance for your help 🙂

Vargis.Khan April 16, 2018 - 8:04 pm

Hi Niranjan,

Please see my comments below.

May 25 and 26 – Really long journey but I will leave it to you to decide if you can make it to Delhi in 2 days.
May 27 – Very ambitious, almost not doable. This is a 2 days journey ideally. About 18 hours of driving.
May 28 – Cannot do it, 2 days journey again. Even if you drove non-stop, it will at least take you 18-19 hours to make it to Leh.
May 29 – OK
May 30 – OK
mAY 31 – I have been to Wari La twice but both times in a 4×4 vehicle, once a safari and then a scorpio. Both of the times we had 4×4 enagaged and even then the vehicles showed signs of stress. To make it to the top in a TUV will need some really good driving skills. No seperate permit needed for Wari La.
Shyok road is still open and chances are that it will remain open per the latest update so you may plan that way. If not, I will recommend coming back to Leh.
June 1 – Hanle will be off limits definitely or at least the Chushul route will be. It may change later on but this is how the situation right now is.
June 2 – Cannot travel on this route
June 3 & 4 – Jispa will be too far. Do Moriri to Sarchu and then Sarchu to Manali.
June 5, 6 & 7 – OK

Regarding Fuel, take a look at the article below please.

niranjan April 17, 2018 - 4:29 am

thank you again for such insightful details. I will change my itinerary accordingly. Will further break up the journey….!!! 🙂

Vargis.Khan April 17, 2018 - 3:42 pm

You are welcome !!!

Jobin April 21, 2018 - 8:09 pm

Hi Vargis,
I’m Planning for a trip from Kerala to Gulmarg via leh from June 1st 2018, Can you please advise me with the best itinerary

June 1 = Thiruvalla-Nilambur-Mysore =435KM
June 2 = Mysore –Hyderabad – Nagpur =1248KM
June 3 = Nagpur-Jhansi-Agra-Delhi=1078KM
June 4 = Delhi-Chandigarh-Shimla-Narkanda=404KM
June 5 = Narkanda-Hatu peak-Chitkul=198KM
June 6 = Chitkul
June 7 = Chitkul-Nako –Mud Village/Pin Valley=290KM
June 8 = Mud Village/Pin Valley-Kaza-Hikkim- Koumik =70KM
June 9 = Koumik-Hikkim-Kaza-Kibber =44KM
June 10 = Kibber-Kunzum Pass-Batal-Keylong-Jispa=189KM
June 11 = Jispa-Leh=337KM
June 12 = Leh
June 13 = Leh-Hunder-Turtuk =211KM
June 14 = Turtuk-Sasoma-NubraValley=185KM
June 15 = NubraValley-PangongTso/Spangmik=221KM
June 16 =Spangmik/Pangong Tso-Chusul-Hanle=159KM
June 17 = Hanle–Leh-Kargil=470KM
June 18 = Kargil-Sonamarg-Gulmarg=247KM
June 19 = Gulmarg-Srinagar=53KM
June 20 = Srinagar-Amritsar=436KM
June 21 = Amritsar-Jaiselmer =794KM
June 22 = Jaiselmer-Longewala-Jaiselmer=246KM
June 23 = Jaiselmer-Vasai=1016KM
June 24 = Mumbai
June 25 = Vasai-Bangalore=1024KM
June 26 = Bangalore
June 27 = Bangalore-Thiruvalla=627KM

Vargis.Khan April 22, 2018 - 5:39 am

Hi Jobin – I just replied on your email. Let us talk on the phone either tonight or tomorrow night to discuss.

gianni April 16, 2018 - 7:23 am

Hi Vargis one more question. I have read you mention that a permit is needed to cross Rohtang La from Manali. I am planning to cycle Manali to Leh. Do I need a permit to cross the first pass? Thank you!

Vargis.Khan April 16, 2018 - 10:51 am

Hi Gianni – Permit is for motored vehicles. You do not need it for bicycles.

Rupesh Sahu April 14, 2018 - 4:54 pm

Hello Vargis bhai,

I am planning for a trip to Ladakh as per below itinerary. Please suggest for any improvements.

Day 1- Delhi to Leh
Day 2- Leh to magnetic hill to confluence of zanskar and indus and then back to leh(bike)
Day 3- Leh to khardungla to hunder(bike)
Day 4- Hunder to pangong tso(bike)
Day 5- Pangong tso to leh(bike)
Day 6- leh to tso moriri (shared taxi)
Day 7- Tso moriri to tso kar to leh(shared taxi)
Day 8- Leh to delhi

Vargis.Khan April 15, 2018 - 9:51 am

Hi Rupesh Bhai,

Just one change, the direct route between Nubra and Pangong via Shyok may remain closed this year. If that happens, you will have to come back to Leh from Nubra and go to Pangong the next day.

Rupesh Sahu April 15, 2018 - 10:09 am

Is there any specific reason for the closure of the route?
I have already booked my flights and not possible for me to extend 1 day.
Vargis bhai can you suggest some other alternative to cover all the above places in my 7 day itinerary?
Thanks in advance

Vargis.Khan April 15, 2018 - 10:27 am

Then do not stay at Hunder for the night. Start by 6 AM from Leh, make it a day trip to Nubra valley and return to Leh by evening. Next day go to Pangong.

Vargis.Khan April 15, 2018 - 10:28 am

Plan it like this. While you are in Leh/Nubra, ask around. If Shyok route is open then stay there for the night or else come back to Leh.

Rupesh Sahu April 15, 2018 - 11:27 am

Also can you suggest some stay options in pangong, tso moriri and hunder(if reqd)?
Do I need to book my accomodation in advance for these places?

Vargis.Khan April 15, 2018 - 9:10 pm

No need to book in advance. Take a look at the posts below. I have mentioned some hotels here at both Pangong and Nubra.

Adhul April 9, 2019 - 9:59 am

I’m planning a trek with my friend from Manali to let is ILP needed for this….?

Muhammad Umar Shaikh March 12, 2018 - 9:07 pm

Hello Sir,

This year I’m planning to travel Srinagar-leh-manalli from mumbai

My plans to travel is as follow

Night/Stop 1 – Udaipur (753 kms)
Night/Stop 2 – Rohtak (667 kms)
Night/Stop 3 – patnitop (650 kms)
Night/Stop 4 – Sonmarg (300 Kms)
Night/Stop 5 – Leh (340 Kms)
Night/Stop 6 – Khardungla/nubra valley (160 Kms)
Night/Stop 7 – Pangong lake (274 kms)
plan 1 plan 2
Night/Stop 8 – Leh (250 Kms)
Night/Stop 9 – Sarchu(250 Kms) Night/Stop 9 – Manalli (480 Kms)
Night/Stop 10 – Manalli (240 Kms) Night/Stop 10 – Delhi (540 Kms)
Night/Stop 11 – Delhi (540 Kms) Night/Stop 11 – Udaipur(670 Kms)
Night/Stop 12 -Udaipur(670 Kms) Night/Stop 12 – Mumbai (780 Kms)
Night/Stop 13 – Mumbai (780 Kms)

Do i need to take permit if I do this route, if yes could u guide me from which place should I get my permit.

I will be travelling on my on bike.

Thank You

Vargis.Khan March 13, 2018 - 3:42 pm

Umar Bhai – Your plan looks OK after the Patinop part. For riding until Patnitop and then back to Mumbai, you would know better if you can ride that long.

After you reach Leh though, you will have to add a day in between. Rest in Leh, get your motorcycle checked and obtain the permits from DM office Leh. You will need ILP for visiting Nubra valley and Pangong Tso

Muhammad Umar Shaikh March 13, 2018 - 9:23 pm

yes there is stay extra day stay at leh & manalli for bike check up & to explore the local

Muhammad Umar Shaikh March 13, 2018 - 10:42 pm

does permit is required to for rohtang pass, while going going from leh to manalli

Vargis.Khan March 14, 2018 - 2:43 pm

No permit needed while going from Leh to Manali. It is only applicable if you climb Rohtang Pass from Manali side.

Vargis.Khan March 14, 2018 - 2:46 pm

Then your plan looks good. No change needed. Which road are you planning to take for going from Nubra to Pangong?

Muhammad Umar Shaikh June 20, 2018 - 6:02 pm

Vargis Bhai, is there any disturbance due to recent to end of government alliance as my trip is about to start by 29 june… is it safe or risky to go ahead..!!!!

Vargis.Khan June 20, 2018 - 11:11 pm

Umar Bhai there is no disturbance yet but who can guarantee anything when it comes to Kashmir. Things can change there in a matter of hours. As of now it is OK to go.

Avik Laha February 24, 2018 - 5:11 am

manali -leh route permit is required for a cycle person

Vargis.Khan February 26, 2018 - 3:58 pm


Bharathi February 1, 2018 - 8:35 am

Hi Vargis Bhaai,

Planning for a small road trip , Me and one of my friend coming with me … My plan is as below..

Is it possible ?? Do i Need to get any permits for the below plan … Give me your valuable suggestions


25/05/2018 CHENNAI Chandigarh (In the Air )
26/05/2018 1 Chandigarh to Shimla 120
27/05/2018 2 Shimla to Manali 250
28/05/2018 3 Manali to Sarchu 230
29/05/2018 4 Sarchu to LEH 260


30/05/2018 5 LEH to Jispa 335
31/05/2018 6 Jispa to Kullu 180
01/06/2018 7 Kullu to Chandigarh 269
02/06/2018 8 Chandigarh to Chennai ( in the Air)

Vargis.Khan February 2, 2018 - 1:40 am

Hello Bharathi – You missed mentioning the most important part, how are you planning to travel after you land at Chandigarh? Private taxi, self drive rental, personal car, by Bus?

Bharathi February 2, 2018 - 5:28 am

RE 350 Classic ( bike rental from chandigargh)

Vargis.Khan February 2, 2018 - 4:20 pm

So two things you need to consider here.

1. The permit for Rohtang Pass. Once you reach Manali, you will need to get the permit or else you cannot cross Rohtang. Problem is that getting this permit can take the entire day at Manali itself. Try to arrange for it online, or contact a hotel / travel agent in Manali to get it for you so you can start towards Leh the very next day. If you could not keep it pre-arranged, you will have no other choice but to stay an entire day in Manali. For details on Rohtang permits, see the post below.

2. You are not spending any time in Ladakh at all for sightseeing. Why not add a couple of more days to visit other areas like Nubra valley and Pangong Tso? Going all the way to Leh and not visiting any other places looks a bit strange.

Subhamay Chatterjee January 7, 2018 - 7:22 am

Planning to go to Leh via Srinagar. Reaching Srinagar on 28th may, 2018 and will be back from Leh on Am 7.6.18. Please suggest which all places we can go and ILP will be required or not. We will be around 12 heads adults. Subhamay from Kolkata. 9433345508 [email protected] is my email address. Tks.

Vargis.Khan January 12, 2018 - 4:47 pm

In late May and early June, entire Ladakh is open and you will be able to visit all the tourist places, ie Nubra Pangong and Tso Moriri. Without ILP, you can only arrive in Leh. For visiting all other places in Ladakh, you will need to obtain ILP

Muzammil Hassan August 11, 2017 - 9:25 am

Hi Mr. Khan, A/W

i have a small queries, if i fill permit details, but there is not showing arrival and depart dates, kindly suggest

Vargis.Khan August 15, 2017 - 4:43 am

Hello Mr. Hassan, W/A

Are you talking about the online portal?

Kaustubh Kale August 15, 2017 - 5:20 am

The person who made my permit (obviously was biased) told me not many people have taken the online route since it isn’t end to end in terms of taking the permit and is a bit complicated. All people that I met there did it only offline, is easier when you do it through the hotel that you stay. They charge about 100 bucks extra, is convenient since we never have to go to the office.

Vargis.Khan August 15, 2017 - 11:37 am

Thanks Kaustubh Bhai

Somnath Oraon August 1, 2017 - 11:25 am

Hello sir
if I go to manali form leh then leh innerline permit is sufficient ?

Vargis.Khan August 1, 2017 - 3:04 pm

Hello Somnath – No permit is required to travel from Leh to Manali.

Kaustubh Kale July 8, 2017 - 6:05 am

Vargisbhai, thanks for this info as always on ILPs. Can you please guide me in case if you have any contacts in Leh who can do this for me in advance. Only if you know them well. Also, Do I require multiple sets (form + application) for each place I plan to visit or one set does. Where is the space to mention dates for a particular place. Like assume, I plan to take Nubra permit for 29-31 July and Pangong say for 30 July to 2 August who should I mention that. Also, I know I have overlapped dates to be conservative and safer side. Is that allowed or they won’t allow that? Do let me know. Thanks

Vargis.Khan July 8, 2017 - 11:45 pm

Hello Kaustubh Bhai,

i have just done this once back in 2013 when I was really short on time. I contacted a hotel there, wired the money, sent my ID card and they arranged the permit. But it was just a one time thing, I have not been in touch with them at all. Let me know if you would like me to give you the contact info.
The dates and places columns are mentioned there in the blank forms that I attached.
The places are after “to visit”, time is after that, and then name of the people in the columns later. You do not have to mention specific dates about where you would be when, just mention an overall time like a week or 10 days when you will be in Ladakh, mention all that places you wish to visit and you are OK to travel any of these per your convenience.

Kaustubh Kale July 9, 2017 - 12:49 pm

Oh fantastic! This is good stuff. So I dont need to give them an exact itinerary. Only mentioning the name of places and rough dates is okay right like say 28 July to 6 August. 10 days aise. Great. Can I mention the following names of places – Diskit and Panamik, Nubra Valley, Spangmik, Pangong Lake, Karzok/Korzok, Tso Moriri. Does this sound okay? yes i have seen your form and application letter. I am anyways travelling alone.

Also, the hotel that you mentioned, I can consider it, can you share the name? I can get the contact number anyhow. Just that, I am unsure if I will be staying there. I don’t mind staying in that hotel if it is in budget (less than 500 bucks) for me. Solo.

Also, I found an agency online that does this ILP thing, but is charging me a bomb of 950 per person.

Vargis.Khan July 10, 2017 - 3:54 pm

Correct Kaustubh Bhai. Just the name of the places and an overall time frame of a week or 10 days per you plan. That hotel is a bit on the expensive side, not 500. Hotel’s name is Hotel Tsomo-Ri and number is 01982 253 622. The person you spoke to, is he asking Rs. 950 apart from the charges for permits? Or overall including everything?

Kaustubh Kale July 10, 2017 - 4:05 pm

Vargisbhai, I doubt 950 includes everything. Since they separately asked me for number of people and number of days + places. I think this costs increases as people and days increase. So I presume, 950 is just charges. I have asked them this, but they havent responded yet.

Vargis.Khan July 10, 2017 - 4:46 pm

Try calling Hotel Tsomo-Ri and see if they can arrange your permits. They did it for me but it was a few years ago.

Kaustubh Kale July 10, 2017 - 4:51 pm

It is okay I will manage, I feel bad to take their help in case I do not eventually go and stay there. I am trying to strictly keep a budget of 500-600 and not more than that 🙂 for stay per night.

Vargis.Khan July 10, 2017 - 4:55 pm

Oh no they won’t do it for free. Friend of mine got it arranged through them the next year but did not stay with them. They charged him extra for arranging permits. I do not really remember though how much it was.

To be honest, you will be staying in Leh for one day anyways so get the permits then. Why the hassle of calling someone, sending ID, wiring money and then going there to collect the permits.

Kaustubh Kale July 10, 2017 - 4:58 pm

Correct. Hence I am not that concerned. You made it so easy with all the forms etc and also letting me know that exact places and dates are not required. So I think it shall be easy. And anyways, whichever hotel I stay, I think some do provide facility of getting permits right. Lets see 🙂 Sometimes a nomadic random trip is the real beauty.

Vargis.Khan July 10, 2017 - 5:02 pm

Perfect. And yes, sometime the nomadic random trip with nothing planned is the beauty of it all. In the end, it is all an experience that you will talk about for years to come.

Kaustubh Kale July 10, 2017 - 5:05 pm

Thank you bhai. Noted.

GHUMANTOO PRAANI (गुमंतू प्राणी ) July 1, 2017 - 10:46 am

Can you give contact no of some agent

Vargis.Khan July 1, 2017 - 5:48 pm

I do not really have any contact with any travel agents in Ladakh. Just Google for it and you will get plenty of options.

Rahil Parker June 23, 2017 - 10:38 am

Hi below is my itinerary I am doing in September.. so all the permits needed will be issued at leh itself right.. should I just provide my itinerary to them and they will give me permits for wherever needed or I have to give them the name of places..

Day 1: Bombay – Chandigarh (by flight)
Day 2: Chandigarh-Udhampur (375 kms – 8/9 hrs)
Day 3: Udhampur – Srinagar (210 kms – 6 hrs)
Day 3: Udhampur – Sonamarg (290 kms – 8 hrs)
Day 4: Srinagar-Sonmarg- Zoji La Pass – Dras – Kargil (210 kms – 6 hrs)
Day 5: Kargil-Sankoo-Panikhar-Kargil (Suru Valley)-Kargil (140 kms – 4 hrs) (BUFFER DAY – optional)
Day 5: Kargil- Lamayuru – Leh (220 kms 5/6 hrs)
Day 6: Leh day off
Day 7: Leh – Khardung La – Diskit – Hunder – Diskit (Nubra valley) (140 kms – 5 hrs)
Day 8: Hunder – Spangmik (Pangong Tso) via Agham Shyok (190kms – 6/7 hrs)
Day 9: Spangmik – Merak – Chushul – karzok (Tso Moriri) (210kms – 8 hrs)
Day 10: Karzok – Pang – Sarchu (225 kms – 9 hrs)
Day 11: Sarchu – Jispa – Keylong – Manali (230 kms – 8 hrs)
Day 12: Manali-Chandigarh (320 kms – 8 hrs)
Day 13: Buffer day
Day 14: Buffer day
Day 15: Chandigarh – Bombay (by flight)

Vargis.Khan June 23, 2017 - 4:34 pm

Rahil – Add a day between Spangmik and Karzok, this is really 2 days journey. Do Spangmik to Hanle and Hanle to Karzok. You do not have to give your itinerary, just mention name of the places on the permit application and it will suffice.

Solo Traveler June 20, 2017 - 4:25 am

I’m going on a budget solo trip to Leh next month and I will be mostly depending the local bus to reach Pangong and Nubra. Will the police stop the bus at check point and ask for ILP?

Vargis.Khan June 20, 2017 - 4:57 pm

Yes they will. Every individual crossing the check post would have to be registered except for locals.

Parth khushu June 18, 2017 - 8:05 pm

Is the permit issuing office open on all days?

Vargis.Khan June 18, 2017 - 8:56 pm

It remains closed on Sundays

ANITA KAR June 12, 2017 - 5:37 am

Hi Vargis
Thanks for your useful info otherwise we will be in problem while visiting Ladakh. I need a help , I want to know about the fees which I have to pay for getting PAP. kindly inform me how the fees can be paid ? whether any online system of making the payment exists or not ? I have already registered myself online and got the permit where from I come to know that Rs400.00 is to be paid but how it is to be paid is not mentioned. So your help is required in this point.

Vargis.Khan June 12, 2017 - 9:09 pm

Hello Anita, You are welcome and thank you for your appreciating words.
Are you trying to obtain a PAP or ILP? PAP is required for foreign nationals and NRIs and ILP is for Indians.

If ILP, then as of now there is no option to make payment online. You will have to reach Leh with a printout of the permit, get it stamed/signed and make payment.

Manish May 10, 2017 - 6:58 am

Hi vargis, I have been reading ur posts, they are very helpful​ for planning leh trip. Do you know if ILP is required for defence personnel also?

Vargis.Khan May 10, 2017 - 5:34 pm

Hi Manish – Thank you for your kind words.

As per the rule, if you are not posted in Ladakh, even a defense person is required to obtain the permit. They are required to mark the entry and exit in a register and to keep a copy of the permit as well. In actual scenario, the Army guys will just let you pass after your produce your Defense Identity card, they will just enter your details in the register, I have seen this happening but the person visiting was a Colonel in uniform with his family.

Manish May 11, 2017 - 8:00 am

Thanks a lot vargis for your early response, I’m not posted in ladakh but few of my coursemates are. Me and my mate will not be in uniform though but will be carrying our IDs, I hope that would be helpful.
Thanks again , really appreciate your efforts.

Vargis.Khan May 11, 2017 - 3:22 pm

Thanks Manish. Do update me as well on this please based on your personal experience.

Pavan shukla April 25, 2017 - 4:01 am

I have to pay all these fee for six year old kid too ?

Vargis.Khan April 25, 2017 - 2:19 pm

I think so. Better would be to obtain the permits, you do not want the Army guys sending you back because there was no permit for your little girl.

Shaon March 30, 2017 - 5:49 pm

Hi! I’m a Bangladeshi national planning to visit Ladakh with my wife. Should I apply for the permit with the form you attached in this post following the procedure you described, or there’s any other form/procedure for foreigners/Bangladeshi nationals?
Thanks in advance

Vargis.Khan March 31, 2017 - 12:21 am

Shaon – Inner line permit is only for Indian citizens. For foreign nationals, a Protected area permit applies. Please visit the link below for more details on it.

Dr imran January 17, 2017 - 5:51 am

If I want to tour with my self bike …then what’s the ilp procedure and costing

Vargis.Khan January 17, 2017 - 4:58 pm

What all places are you planning to cover? If you just want to go to Leh, visit Nubra and Pangong and come back, you do not need ILP anymore

Arth Patel December 4, 2016 - 8:12 pm

As You said is it True that we can’t get our cameras to Hanle as i am thinking about clicking shots of milkyway there and I’ve seen some photographers to take shots there! So i want to know what is the status now there?

Vargis.Khan December 4, 2016 - 9:40 pm

Arth – It is correct. You cannot take camera to Hanle, beyond Loma check post.

Tikky September 26, 2016 - 7:18 am

Many Thanks Sir, it is very useful for me who will visit there during this early October ^_^

Vargis.Khan September 26, 2016 - 2:16 pm

You are welcome brother

Mannik Sethi August 17, 2016 - 5:27 am

Hi. Do they really take the camera’s at Loma check post? I am planning to go there just to capture some good pictures.

Vargis.Khan August 18, 2016 - 12:44 am

Yes you will have to submit your camera at Loma check post.

Saif Khan August 11, 2016 - 10:18 am

Thanks brother. This is a very helpful post. Two of us are planning a bike tour in Leh for 5-6 days. We plan to rent bike from Leh and return it in Leh after visiting prominent places like Tso Moriri, Pangang Tso, Nubra Valley, etc. We are from Bangladesh and would prefer to have the ILP ready before we reach Leh. Would it be possible for you to recommend a source (hotel or travel agent) that can help us with the ILPs and also possibly rent out bikes?

That would be mighty helpful brother.


Vargis.Khan August 12, 2016 - 1:28 am

You would not need an ILP Saif. For foreign nationals, a PAP (Protected area permit) is required. ILP is only for Indians. Please take a look at the following post for more information.

Saif Khan August 12, 2016 - 5:42 pm

Thanks a lot! This was helpful.

Vargis.Khan August 13, 2016 - 3:45 am

You are welcome brother

Aditya July 12, 2016 - 4:19 am

Hi! Can you please confirm if the inner line permits (ILP) are still required for travelling to Leh-Numbra Valley-Leh and Leh-Pangong-Leh.

Vargis.Khan July 16, 2016 - 7:30 pm

No you do not need ILP for these places anymore

Prince June 30, 2016 - 3:46 am

Thanks Sir, this information is really helpful.

Vargis.Khan June 30, 2016 - 7:26 am

You are welcome brother

Prince June 27, 2016 - 10:11 am

Khan Sir,

I am planning to drive to Leh in Sept 2016 (this year). I am in the process of finalizing the complete plan. However, towards local site my plan is as follows:

Day n: Arrive in leh
Day n+1: Leh Local (rest + local sight seeing + ILP)
Day n+2: Leh to Hunder, with night stay there
Day n+3: Hunder to Pangong Tso Lake, with night stay at lake
Day n+4: Pangong Tso Lake to Leh

Please let me know:

# if this plan is feasible and I can easily do Hunder to Pangong Tso Lake in a hatch back
# Which Places on this route would require ILP.


Vargis.Khan June 28, 2016 - 8:47 pm

Hello Prince – Let me ask you a question first, which car are you planning to take and how old it is? In order to reach Pangong from Nubra in a day, you would either have to take Agham Shyok road or cross Wari La, both of which are not suitable for a hatchback. ILP is not required for either of these places though.

Prince June 29, 2016 - 3:51 am

Thanks Sir,

In that case let me plan for the traditional route. Leh-Nubra-Leh and Leh-Pangong Tso Lake-Leh. My car is Swift VXi, a 10 year old hatchback with 65 K on the odometer. Out of curiosity, is the Agham Shyok road or Wari La route tougher than the Batal-Gramphoo route. I did the Shimla-Kaza-Kunzum Pass-Rohtang Pass-Manali in 2014 using the same car. The Batal-Gramphoo stretch was scary for hatchback whose under body was pounded like anything.

Vargis.Khan June 30, 2016 - 1:10 am

Hello Prince – Agham Shyok road is pretty much same like Batal Gramphoo stretch. No tar on the road, lots of rocks and water crossings. For Wari La, the last 20 kms are way to steep for a 10 yr old hatch back. I did that route in Safari 4×4 and even then I had to pop open the bonnet and let the engine cool down after I reached Wari La top so that should give you an idea. For your car, best would be the traditional way that you suggested. Add a day, come back to Leh and go to Pangong the next day.

Vargis.Khan June 30, 2016 - 1:11 am

Take a look at the following article for information on Wari La route.

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