Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Agham Shyok Road

by Vargis.Khan

In my previous article here, I talked about reaching Pangong Tso from Nubra valley via Wari La. In this article, we will discuss the second route, the Agham Shyok Road, that you can take to complete the same journey, that is to reach Pangong Tso directly from Nubra Valley without having the need to return to Leh.

A few years ago, say about a decade, when travelling to Leh was more for the adventurous kind, a common itinerary that people followed was to go to Nubra valley, come back to Leh and then go to Pangong the next day. I followed the same when I first visited Leh. There were two reasons behind this. The first and the foremost reason was that there was not much information available anywhere about different inner roads in Ladakh so people would usually stick to the main roads. Second reason was there was not much civilian movement in the area so several of these inner roads remain out of limit for tourists. Much has changed now. Ladakh has gotten popular and tourism in the area is increasing by each passing year. Thanks to that, even government removed several restrictions like ILP and opened several new areas for tourists to visit.

One such road that did not even exist like 5 years ago is the Agham Shyok road. Back then, if you wanted to reach Pangong from Nubra, there was no second choice but to either return to Leh or take the Wari La road which would save you some kilometers but you really got to have a strong vehicle to make to Wari La top. Both these routes were time consuming and would eat up an entire day. To make it easier I guess, another road was created that run along the Shyok river, was considerably short and would cut down the time of journey between two places considerably. But is it really easier? Time saving, yes, but easier? Hell no.

Before I get into details of this road, let us take a look at the map of the region to understand the route.

nubra-to-pangong-via-agham-shyok-road-1

Agham Shyok Road Map

After crossing Khalsar village, you need to take the road towards Village Agham, leaving the upper route going towards Khardung La. Once you reach Agham, you will be at a bifurcation where the road left would take you to Shyok village and the one towards right is going towards Wari La. The road towards left is the one the one you need to take.

nubra-to-pangong-via-agham-shyok-road-2

Agham Shyok Road

Below are a few pictures of what you will find when you take this turn.

An image of the Agham Shyok road, from Nubra valley to Pangong Tso, explaining how difficult the road is

Agham Shyok Road

The total distance on this road between Khalsar to Pangong Tso is approximately 140 kms and total travel time is about 6 hours which is about 80 to 90 kms and 4-5 hours less than the Wari La route. While the Wari La route is long and equally desolated, the Agham Shyok road is even more isolated and far more treacherous, if it can be called a road at all for that matter. For a while, it will run right next to the Shyok river and then there will be a tremendous gain in altitude.

An image of the Agham Shyok road, from Nubra valley to Pangong Tso, explaining how difficult the road is

Agham Shyok Road

For the part when you will be travelling next to the river, you may have to cross the river several times and I mean driving or riding right through the water and not over a bridge. If the water level in the river is high, the entire road would be claimed by the Shyok river. Below are a few pictures of the section where the road sometimes goes underwater.

An image of the Agham Shyok road, from Nubra valley to Pangong Tso, explaining how difficult the road is

Agham Shyok Road

An image of the Agham Shyok road, from Nubra valley to Pangong Tso, explaining how difficult the road is

Agham Shyok Road

In the months of July and August, when the snow is melting, there will be several streams of water that you will have to go through. To make it worse, this entire stretch is full of rocks and at some places you would have to get down, remove rocks and clear the road to pass by. Loose rocks, big rocks, rocks under water, stones sharp enough to damage your vehicle’s tires, you name it and this road has it. There are several sand dunes on the route too and at some places, you may have to drive through the sand. To add to all this, this is also a landslide prone area and some parts of the stretch are enough to get your heart pounding. Falling stones from up above the hills is another big concern and safety risk.




As I mentioned above, this entire area is highly desolated and you would rarely come across another living soul. Even the local taxi drivers would sometimes refuse to take this route. There are no services on this road anywhere and a breakdown would mean big trouble. If you are travelling alone, then there is no other option but to leave your vehicle and walk to the nearest source of help which would either be Agham or Shyok village.

After all said and done, there is no denying the fact that the road is highly scenic as well and if you have slightest of interest in photography, you would barely be able to keep your hands off your camera. If you are the adventurous type, this is a road that you would remember for rest of the life. So if you are planning to travel on this route, below are a few suggestions I must make.

  1. Avoid travelling alone as far as you can. You should be in a group of at least 2 to 3 vehicles. If your car gets stuck in the sand, or rocks somewhere and you cannot get it out and you are alone, you are done.
  2. Take this road only if you are an experienced driver. Some of the curves and terrain is hard to handle and you do not want to risk your own safety or of people with you.
  3. Be extra careful when you are out of your vehicle as there are places where you will find stones falling from up the hills, or “shooting rocks/stones” as they are called.
  4. Be careful while removing clearing rocks from the road; do not hurt your hands.
  5. A 4×4 vehicle with good ground clearance is best for this route.
  6. Do not even think about taking a hatchback or Sedan unless you intend to bury your car in Shyok village and catch a flight back home.
  7. If you are in a 4×2 SUV, it will still be a tough journey. You really need be good at the wheel to manage.
  8. Even a 4×4 SUV will cry out loud at some places, especially in July and August when the water level is high and Shyok river will be waiting to greet you right on the road itself.
  9. Inquire about the road conditions ahead while you are in Nubra valley or at Agham village. If the locals ask you to not risk it, take their advice and return.

For motorcycles, your bike really needs to be in a good condition to handle this terrain. I know entire Ladakh is a difficult terrain but this road is an entirely different story altogether. Get your bike checked in Leh before you start towards Nubra. Travel solo if at all possible. Travel light and  leave your extra luggage back at the hotel at Leh if you can. Be very careful and ride slowly because if your bike slips, you can get some serious bruises and cuts. Stop, get off your bike at the water crossings, inspect and then get across slowly and carefully. Water crossings here have some big and unstable rocks under the water so practice caution.  If you are on a rented bike, the rule is plain and simple, DO NOT go on this road.

The next question is, when does this road open. Surprisingly, unlike several other routes, this road opens a little early, almost at the same time as Srinagar Leh highway. I have known people who have done this route in late April and early May. This brings us to our next question which is when is the best time to travel on Agham Shyok road. In my opinion, there is no best time really but yes, July and August are the worst months to be here. As the snow melts in these months, there will be several water streams and high chance that Shyok river may run over the road as well. If you want to cover this route, think about doing it in either May or June or after August. Road remains open until late October and closes almost at the same time as Srinagar Leh highway.


Update: September 2017

I wrote this article a few years ago, back when Shyok road was definitely one of the worst roads of Ladakh. Much however changed since then. There was a lot of work on the route in 2017 and the road conditions have tremendously improved. Sharing a few pictures clicked in September 2017.

I hope this information on Agham Shyok road was of help. If you have any further questions, please feel free to ask in the comments section below; or at our Community Forum; and I will be glad to answer.

Related Articles

192 comments

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khaleel khan September 24, 2019 - 8:54 am

Hello Vargis bhai , we are 4 memebers as group travelling (2 couples on bike),
1)leh local
2)leh-sham region
3)leh to nubra valley
4)nubra to pangong lake
5) pangong to leh
6)back to hyderabad

any change required in above schedule
is it safe to travel from nubra to pangong directly and which route i need to take

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Vargis.Khan September 24, 2019 - 4:38 pm

Hi Khaleel Bhai – Your itinerary is fine, no change needed. Take the Shyok route to go to Pangong from Nubra Valley.

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Tushar February 24, 2020 - 5:18 pm

Hi Vargis, post Sept, 2017 visit, would you suggest travel on the Shyok route on rented 500cc bike with double occupancy each ( 2 bikes, 4ppl)?

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Vargis.Khan February 25, 2020 - 1:32 am

Hi Tushar – Yes, the road is now in much better condition.

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Tushar February 24, 2020 - 5:19 pm

Hi! Vargis, would you suggest Shyok route in mid July for 2 rented bikes with double occupancy (2 bikes, 4 ppl)?

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Vargis.Khan February 25, 2020 - 1:32 am

Hi Tushar – Yes you can do it, easily.

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Narinder Singla July 10, 2019 - 4:20 pm

Hi Vargis ! I have planned to travel on Nubra Agham Shyok Pyongyong rout in mid August with my family on my XUV AWD W8. Is it safe. ?

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Mariko July 1, 2019 - 3:36 am

Hello, Vargis.
I’m going to rent a bike in Leh and planning to visit Nubra and Pangong tso in August with my husband.
I heard the road between Nubra and Pangong tso is good now. However, is it still safe to use Shyok road in August? Some people said, it’s dangerous to use Shyok road because there are lots of water streams from melting snow. Could you give me any advise pls?

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Vargis.Khan July 1, 2019 - 4:06 am

Hi Mariko – Yes the road is safe now and good to use in August as well

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mariko July 1, 2019 - 5:35 am

Thank you for your advise!

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Vargis.Khan July 1, 2019 - 3:38 pm

Your are welcome !!!

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Prerna June 5, 2019 - 4:41 am

We are 2 people travelling to Leh in August..is it safe to travel from Nubra to Pangong directly if the biker is travelling in hills for the first time..presently we have only driven in plains

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Vargis.Khan June 5, 2019 - 3:56 pm

Yes it is safe to go. That road is quite good now. See the pictures at the link below please.

http://roadragas.com/index.php?threads/nubra-to-pangong-via-agham-shayok-and-return-to-leh-on-the-same-day.4776/#post-12900

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Aashima May 31, 2019 - 10:56 pm

HI Vargis!
Amazing blog!
Travelling to Leh from Srinagar by road on 18th June. We were thinking of going to pangong straight from nubra. But the people of the hotel in Leh told that this time of the year the road might be shut and the condition will be bad as its very hot. SO would you advise to tske the road? Travelling with my parents. Please help so that the bookings CaN be done accordingly at pangong . Thanks

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Vargis.Khan May 31, 2019 - 11:02 pm

Hi Aashima – They are right. That road may not open in June. Best would be to keep two itineraries. If it is open, go that way else return to Leh.

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Chandrika Patni May 17, 2019 - 8:45 am

I came across your blog while looking for some information regarding travel from nubra to pangong. Found the blog extremely useful, however since we are traveling with 2 young kids (aged 11 and 6), training your blog, I concluded that travel via the Agham Shyok road should be avoided.

However, later, in your blog I noticed you have mentioned that from 2017 onwards, the roads have become much better and can now be considered.

I am traveling to Leh from 15th to 20th June 2019. Would be grateful if you could advice on whether the road could be taken or should be avoided.

Also, I read in one of your blogs that camping/ tenting at Pangong is no longer allowed. Is that still the case?

Request your help as it will help me make my decision.

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Vargis.Khan May 17, 2019 - 12:59 pm

Hi Chandrika – Yes Shyok road has now improved much and is smooth tarmac all along. There are camp sites still available at the lake but a fewer in numbers so you may face some challenge finding one.

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Chandrika Patni May 17, 2019 - 5:27 pm

Many thanks. Really grateful

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Mohan Prabhu Desai June 19, 2019 - 8:08 am

Hello Ms Chandrika

Did you travel via Agham Shyok road during your visit?
I would just like to have the latest update as we are travelling to ladakh in the next month.

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Vargis.Khan June 19, 2019 - 5:15 pm Reply
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Prasenjit Saha May 12, 2019 - 3:14 pm

Hello Vargis Sir,

We are a group of 3, planning to visit Ladakh in June 1st week this year by Classic 350 bikes. Do tyre puncture occur very often en route to Nubra and Pangong from Leh. I wanted to ask about tyre puncture shops or garages while travelling from Leh to Nubra, Nubra to Pangong. Please assist.

Thanks in advance.

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Vargis.Khan May 12, 2019 - 4:26 pm

Yes it can happen Prasenjit. It has happened with me as well so you should carry spare tubes, a foot pump and should know how to change a tube.

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Vinod Prasad May 3, 2019 - 9:10 pm

Hello Vragis .Appreciate your passion for travel and the useful information you provide

We, family of 10 (68 years old mother), planning for Leh trip during mid July…Delhi—-Manali—-Jispa—-Leh(2 nights)—-Nubra—Pangyong—-Sarchu—Manali—-Delhi. We will be hiring Tempo Traveller(I dislike it though but no other choice). My questions are-

1: how I can add TSO Moriri to this plan given that we want to keep travel to max 200-225 km every day.. one extra night no problem…..or just place either pangyoung or Moriri

2: How many tents I will need during my night stay to these halts? minimum 3 I guess?…Do they provide additional mattress?

3:I’m guessing 1500 x 3 = 4500 per night + dinner and breakfast will be extra ?

4: How much a Tempo will cost us Leh—–Nubra—Pangyong—-Sarchu—Manali (with perhaps TSO Moriri added)

Thank you so much in advance…

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Vargis.Khan May 4, 2019 - 6:56 am

Hi Vinod,

1. You can do Leh to Moriri, Moriri to Sarchu and Sarchu to Manali
2. Need tents where? There is no camping at Pangong anymore so the only place would be Tso Moriri.
3. For 10 people, I would say 4 tents would be needed. Their rent is on per person basis and not per tent. About 1k to 1500 per person including meals.
4. Talk to Rohit in Leh at @ 9910722252. He can tell you about the cost.

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Bharat April 9, 2019 - 4:33 am

Hi Vargis ji, my agent has suggested travelling from Nubra to Pangong Tso via Agham Shyok road. Usually is the road open in early/mid June and is an Innova good enough to negotiate that road? Thanks

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Trishna Kulshrestha February 12, 2019 - 8:15 am

Hi Vargis,

Your posts are really helpful. I and my husband are planning to travel to Leh – Nubra – Pangong – kargil – Srinagar from 19th April 2019 to 28th April 2019 in that order. We were thinking of going from Nubra to Pangong around 22nd/23nd April. will the Agham shyok road be open during that time? And would you suggest we take it or take the Wari la road? I know this year has been more chilly and wet compared to last year so would like to prepare/ adjust our itinerary accordingly.

Warm Regards
Trishna

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Nishant Chaubey February 12, 2019 - 8:54 am

I have been there in September and the road conditions are better now which Vargis has already mentioned, Agam Shyok road would be better option as Wari la will be completely freezed, let vargis bhai confirm for the same as his articles and suggestions were very helpful in completing my trip.

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Vargis.Khan February 12, 2019 - 1:06 pm

Thanks Nishant Bhai.

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Vargis.Khan February 12, 2019 - 1:05 pm

Hi Trishna – Wari La would definitely not open by April. Shyok road may or may not open but it all depends on the weather, hard to predict right now. Wait or now and do not finalize your itinerary. The way it is snowing this year, opening of Srinagar Leh route may get delayed as well.

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MITADRU BANERJEE February 9, 2019 - 6:44 am

Hi vargis,
We are 3 couples who are planning to visit from nubra to pangong inijuly . Do you think the agam shyok road will be closed?

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Vargis.Khan February 9, 2019 - 3:10 pm

Yes it will be

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Kaustav Mukherjee October 27, 2018 - 9:33 pm

Hi Vargis. Need an information.

I want to travel with my wife. Is there any bus service available from Turtuk or Diskit to Pangong or Hanley via Agham Shyok Road. If yes can you provide the timing?If not available, can I get a share taxi for the same route?If can.How much it can cost. Finally If all these 2 options are not available. How much a car cost from Turtuk/Diskit to Pangong (night stay at pangong) and next day to Leh.

Thanks in advance

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Vargis.Khan October 28, 2018 - 4:40 am

There is no bus service available on Shyok route Kaustav. Shared taxi is a matter of chance, you may find one and you may not. I am not sure how much it will cost, couple of hundred per person I think. A private cab for Nubra will cost about Rs. 10 to 12000 for 2 days.

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Abhishek October 10, 2018 - 6:29 pm

Hi. I am going to Leh in a few days withmy family. Me, my wife, my father who is 77 years and son who is 4.5 years old. Our tour is arranged by travel operator and on 16th October we will be travelling to Pangong from Diskit and then back to Leh by evening. I guess the Car will take the Agam-Shyak route. Is it doable/advisable I.e. Diskit-Pangong-Leh in a Day? Will it be hectic for us?

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Vargis.Khan October 11, 2018 - 3:24 am

The journey will be long yes but it is doable in a day. Just make sure you start early from Diskit.

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Debabrata Ghosh August 20, 2018 - 10:38 am

Hello Vargis Khan

Is the entire Agam-Shyok road being improved as shown in the pictures? If yes, can it be covered in late May on a bike?

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shashwatsinghbhati August 7, 2018 - 9:10 pm

Hello,
planning for a bike trip via manali & a returning trip from Leh through Srinagar in late september.We are two friends who will be travelling on a single bike(Classic 350) 2017 edition,along with our luggage so can you just confirm me what should we keep in our mind so that we can prepare for this trip & in how many days we can complete this trip & what should be the budget for single person as we’ll be travelling from my bike from Jaipur? And How many days we’ll need to cover this journey & wants to visit Hanle & Tso Moriri.

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Vargis.Khan August 7, 2018 - 10:11 pm

1. For 2 people on a single bike, travel as light as possible. Don’t bring unnecessary luggage. Carry a puncture repair kit and learn how to change tubes/tires.
2. 14-15 days minimum for a round trip from Jaipur.
3. Budget estimate is hard to give, depends on you completely but keep a minimum of 18-20k per head.

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Nishant July 26, 2018 - 7:09 pm

Hi Vargis Bhai, I have a planned a trip to leh, we’re couple have limited time so have planned to cover pangong from nubra on rented bike , date is 13th September, how safe it is then, also what are the things we need to carry. During that time also we may meet river river flowing on the road?
Really appreciate your help

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Vargis.Khan July 27, 2018 - 1:45 am

Hello Nishant Bhai – Yes you are OK to travel in Mid September. It is highly improbable that the water level would be so high to close the road. You are OK to go.

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Nishant August 2, 2018 - 9:48 am

Thanks a lot.

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Vargis.Khan August 2, 2018 - 7:25 pm

You are welcome !!!

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Swapnil September 2, 2018 - 7:16 pm

Hi, Nishant. We are a couple and our dates also seems to be same for Nubra to Pangong. You may ping me on 9425531827.

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Raman Kaushal July 26, 2018 - 7:22 am

Hii can we go from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso via Agham Shyok Road around 25th Sep by Tempo Traveler ?

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Vargis.Khan July 26, 2018 - 1:06 pm

Yes you can

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Asif Khan July 25, 2018 - 6:37 am

Vargis Bhai hello,

Few information needed:
1. We will be a group of four doing leh bike trip on two rented bikes (twin sharing) which will be preferable 350cc or 500cc.
2. We will be taking agham-shyok road for pangong. Kitna risky ho sakta hai?
3. How much spare petrol shoul we carry?
4. Does the following itinerary seems good:

Day 1: leh to nubra
Day2: nubra to merak via agham-shyok road
Day3: merak to henle
Day 4: henle to karzok
Day 5: karzok to leh

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Asif Khan July 25, 2018 - 7:02 am

The trip will be in second week of September

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Vargis.Khan July 25, 2018 - 12:59 pm

Hi Asif Bhai,

1. In case of rented bikes and with pillion, opt for a 500CC one.
2. It is not risky anymore, safe to go
3. Petrol is available in black at most of the places in Ladakh so entirely your choice.
4. Itinerary is good

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Asif Khan July 25, 2018 - 1:03 pm

Shukriya bhaijaan. One more doubt any specific shop that you might recommend for renting the bike.

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Vargis.Khan July 25, 2018 - 1:13 pm

You are welcome Bhai. And no, I do not really have any recommendation as such. Just take a test ride of few bikes after you reach Leh and finalize the one that seems best.

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K. Majumder July 21, 2018 - 9:39 am

hi, vargis bhai, I want to move to leh, nubra, pangong tso murari etc on 12 th Aug.2018 by rented mobyke.I am 48 years old and weight is 95 Kg. Can I move in this route and I am a 20 pc smoker/day.Can I move?

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Vargis.Khan July 21, 2018 - 2:47 pm

Hello Koushik Bhai – As long as there is no medical ailment or respiratory problems like Asthama then yes, you are free to travel. I have quit smoking now but during my first few trips there, even I was 20 pc smoker a day. Did not face any problem and I lit it up at high altitude passes as well, all of them 🙂 You know how it is for smokers, the moment you stop, next thing you will do is to light up a cigarette.

The only problem you could face will be with rented bikes, that is it

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RAJKUMAR AGRAWAL July 14, 2018 - 8:13 pm

Day 1: Manali to Sarchu/Jispa
Day 2: Sarchu/Jispa to Leh.
Day 3: Leh local with Alchi
Day 4&5: Leh to Nubra valley with Turtuk
Day 6 Nubra valley to Pangong .
Day 7 Pangong to Leh.

My question is:
1. Please check my itinary and modify, if required.
2. Which time is better to visit here “15 to 21 Sep18 onwards” OR “29 Sep to 5 Oct 2018?
3. Should I add some more days to my itinary?? Please suggest.
4. Which route is better for Nubra to Pangong?
5. Any other suggestion/advice from your side.

NOTE: My travelling date and travelling duration is flexible.

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Vargis.Khan July 15, 2018 - 2:57 am

1. Itinerary is OK
2. Both are equally good, not much of a difference
3. If possible, yes
4. Shyok road
5. How are you traveling?

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RAJKUMAR AGRAWAL July 15, 2018 - 4:58 pm

Thanks for your quick reply.
We are 10-12 persons, age around 65-70 years. We want a tempo traveller, give your opinion about vehicle.

1) After my above plan, shall we go to Tso Moriri?
2) If yes, then from where should we go?
3) Any possible route from Sarchu to Tso Moriri?
4) Any advice from your side about this plan?

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Vargis.Khan July 16, 2018 - 12:43 am

1. Yes you can if you have time to do it.
2. From Pangong, go to Hanle and stay there for the night and go to Karzok (Moriri) the next day.
3. You cannot go directly from Sarchu, will have to first reach Leh to get the permits. In terms of AMS as well, it is advised that you reach Leh first.
4. Your plan is all OK Sir. You may want to book your stay in advance to avoid last minute hassle as there is a lot of tourist rush in Ladakh this year.

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Abhiroop Das July 6, 2018 - 6:59 am

Hello Sir,
I am planning to drive Nubra to Pangong via Agham Shayok on 11 Sep, 2018 with my 2WD Scorpio. Considering this year’s road conditions do you think it will be manageable?
Abhiroop

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Abhiroop Das July 6, 2018 - 8:18 am

Sorry, date would be 11th of Aug and not Sep

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Vargis.Khan July 6, 2018 - 3:12 pm

Abhiroop Bhai the road is good in condition now so yes it will be manageable. If the road is open, then you are OK to go. If there is any problem then Army will shut down the route.

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Abhiroop Das July 7, 2018 - 6:40 am

Thanks for the reply : )

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Vargis.Khan July 7, 2018 - 8:07 am

You are welcome !!!

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Rajib Manna June 26, 2018 - 5:03 pm

Hello Mr.Khan
I am planning for a road trip ……

from kolkata to leh via srinagar,

then leh to nubra(nubra to siachen base camp/warshi village drive,if possible)

then nubra to pangong lake via shyok village,

pangong to leh,

then leh – manali-delhi-kolkata.

I am doing this trip in my NEW SWIFT DZIRE.I will be at Leh on 13 September,2018…..So,I have the following question…

1. Is it possible to go pangong from nubra via shyok by my DZIRE??

2.About SIACHEN,I had read you article,I dont have that much source to obtain special permit for siachen,so how far I can go by drive on this route to siachen with inner line permit?
If I can go upto some certain point,will it be worth going,will that point have some glimpse of siachen glaciar or base camp?

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Vargis.Khan June 26, 2018 - 6:09 pm

Hello Mr. Manna,

1. Yes you can easily cover Shyok route in your Dzire.
2. With your regular ILP, you can go as far as Warshi Village but there will be no view of the glacier or the base camp.

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Yashir June 17, 2018 - 7:16 am

Hi vargis ,
How to visit nubra, turtuk and Nubra to pangong via aghom and shyok with in 3 days from leh. Where should i stay first day ? Second day best time to return to pangong ?
Kindly advise as early as possible.. we are leaving tomorrow

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Vargis.Khan June 18, 2018 - 2:09 pm

Hi Yashir -Sorry for late reply. I guess you already traveled today.

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Yashir June 19, 2018 - 2:39 am

Hi sir,
No sir , we dint reach leh yet.. we are on the way. Today in delhi. ” Leaving ” means leaving from home. Waiting for ur valuable advise…

Thanks

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Vargis.Khan June 19, 2018 - 2:45 am

In that case you can do, Leh to Turtuk, then Turtuk to Pangong via Shyok road and Pangong to Leh via Chang La.

Make sure you leave as early as you can on Day 1 for Turtuk and then also on Day 2 for Pangong Tso. The journey will be a bit long on both these days.

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Harish M June 6, 2018 - 8:20 am

Hi Vargis,
I am thinking of travelling by this route some where mid of June 2018 (next week) by Innova. we are a family of 3 adults. Is it oK? please advice about vehicle, the season and probable road condition by that time.

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Vargis.Khan June 6, 2018 - 7:31 pm

Condition of Shyok road now is fine Harish so you are OK to go. No problem as of now.

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Harish M June 8, 2018 - 8:43 am

Thanks Vargis.

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Vargis.Khan June 8, 2018 - 11:42 am

You are welcome

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RK AGrawal June 11, 2018 - 7:11 am

Hi Vargis,

What will be condition, whether road will be open or close? I will be travelling with local taxi on this road on 24-25th June 2018.

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Vargis.Khan June 11, 2018 - 6:08 pm

Hi RK, Road is open and will be around your dates of travel.

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Harini Balaji June 4, 2018 - 10:52 am

Hi Vargis,
Thanks for your inputs on this route. We are a group of 6 girls leaving for 6 days 5 nights Ladakh tour starting this Wednesday. We are planning to cover Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso through this route in an Innova/Xylo. Is this route safe for us? Are there backups on this route now? Kindly advise us. Based on your inputs we will take a call on the itinerary.
Thanks,
Harini

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Harini Balaji June 13, 2018 - 5:36 am

Hi,
We traveled from Nubra to Pangong on 10th June. The roads are MUCH better than the main Leh-Pangong road and is VERY scenic.
Thanks,
Harini

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Vargis.Khan June 19, 2018 - 2:47 am

Hi Harini – Sorry I could not reply to your comment. I was myself traveling at that time and just returned. Do share some recent pics of the route if you have any for other people’s information.

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SUKUMAR NAYAK June 1, 2018 - 11:01 am

Hi Vergis Sir

We, a group of Four friends and travelling in 2nd week of june from pangong lake to Nubra valley via agham shyok route. Here’s is the itinerary.

11.06.2018: Arrival at Leh, making permit and sight seeing.
12.06.2018: Pangong Lake via Hemis, Thicksey Monsatery and Druckwhite Lotus School.(Halt and Pangong Lake)
13.06.2018: Pangong Lake to Nubhra via Agham Shyok Road.
14.06.2018: Nubhra Valley to Leh via Khardungla.
15.06.2018: Leh to Srinagar via Kargil.
16.06.2018: Srinagar to New Delhi

Could you please tell me if this itinerary is Ok or some changes needed. Is it safe to travel via Agham Shyok Road in a rented bike and if travelling to Srinagar possible is a day if we start early on 15.06.2018?

Thanking you.

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Vargis.Khan June 19, 2018 - 2:48 am

Hello Sukumar – Sorry for not being able to reply to your comment brother. I was myself traveling at that time and have just returned. How was your trip?

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Mohd Bakhtiyar May 30, 2018 - 10:50 am

Hi Vergis Sir

we were a group of Four friends and travelling in 1st week of july from Nubra valley to pangong lake via agham shyok route. Stay night at pangong and next day came from changla route… Is that planning is Ok at that time. we are four friends having two 500cc RE, will it be managable ???

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Vargis.Khan June 19, 2018 - 2:49 am

Hello Bakhtiyar Bhai,

Sorry about late reply. Yes the plan is fine at that time. It will be manageable.

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Meenaxi May 22, 2018 - 7:41 am

Hi Vargis,

Great article. Thanks for the insight and details. Please suggest if below is a good itinerary
2-Jun pickup from srinagar airport and travel to sonmarg.
3-Jun travel to leh
4-Jun leh local sight seeing
5-Jun travel to nubra and sightseeing
6-Jun Sumur to turtuk and return to nubra
7-Jun Sumur to pangong via Agham Shyok Road
8-Jun travel to leh
9-Jun leh to tso-moriri and stay at tso-moriri
10-Jun back to leh
11-Jun extra day
12-Jun travel to srinagar
13-Jun drop to srinagar airport

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Vargis.Khan May 22, 2018 - 1:32 pm

Hello Meeenaxi – Your itinerary is great, no change required.

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Vikram May 15, 2018 - 6:59 pm

Hi vargis,
Your article is really insightful.
I am planning to take the Agham-shyok route on 17th may in my duster. Do you think it’s a good decision? Let me know please.
I am traveling with one friend in the same car.

Thanks,
Vikram

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Vargis.Khan May 15, 2018 - 7:04 pm

Hi Vikram – Yes that road is now OK for a Duster

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Charu May 12, 2018 - 11:56 am

Excellent description..!! I am going through almost all of your blogs and they are very helpful. Thanks a lot.

We are family group of 14 people (age 15-50) arriving Leh on 27th may, 2018. Our vehicles would possibly a tempo traveller or 2-3 Innova. Which route should we take from Numbra valley to Pangong Tso. Or should we get back to leh first and then take the other route?

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Vargis.Khan May 12, 2018 - 4:58 pm

Thaks Charu. You should take the Shyok route for reaching Pangong from Nubra if you are short on time. If not, then a better deal would be to return to Leh and go to Pangong the next day.

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Aditya Komble May 12, 2018 - 9:24 am

Hello Vargis ,
I was searching for any information on this route and came across your very descriptive and attractive post. Thanks to you for this detailed blog .
Actually we’re group of friends ( Some are married couple and rest are just Guys and Girls in their Mid 30s ) will be travelling to Leh Ladakh this July end . We’re planning of Manali- Leh – Ladakh – Manali . We’ll get some REs and a 4×4 SUV from Manali only . As per your pics and blog, we’re considering to take the route Nubra – Khalsar – Agham -Tangyar – Pangon Tso (Stay Overnight ) – Sakti – Karu – Leh .
( Actually This route. khalsar > agam> shyok Village> Durbak > Pangong
Copied from Above .)
Actually we’re planning to cover this route in 2 days starting Early in the morning at Day 1. What will be your inputs over this itinerary ? Is this possible to cover in 2 Days ? I’ve also gone through your blog on this route .
.
Also what would you advice from where shall we take bikes on rent ? Manali or Leh ? Do we get any problems in Leh if we take vehicles from Manali ?

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Vargis.Khan May 12, 2018 - 9:04 pm

Hi Aditya – The Shyok route from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso is hardly 6-7 hours. You do not need to do it in 2 days. The journey will be Leh to Nubra on Day 1, Nubra to Pangong via Shyok on Day 2 and Pangong to Leh via Chang La on Day 3

You will have to rent bikes at both places. Manali rented bikes will only be good enough to get you to Leh but you cant use them for sightseeing in Ladakh. Once in Leh, you will leave the bikes parked at the hotel, rent another bikes from Leh city and travel to Nubra and Pangong. Then you will hand over these bikes, collect your Manali bikes and journey back.

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piyush May 11, 2018 - 12:43 pm

hello vargis

I am planning to travel to leh in the second week of june- here is my itenary please suggest if its okay.

9th night delhi to manali by bus
10th manali sight seen
11th morning manali to leh by taxi (i guess we will reach leh by 11 night around 10 PM)
12th morning leh (local area)
13th morning around 6 AM; leh to kardungla, Khalsar, Sumur, Panamik, Taksha, Sasoma and warshi and then finally to base camp. Return fromm the base camp and stay at Khalsar.
14th morning Khalsar to Diskit – Hunder and Turtuk then return to back to khalsar and travel further to Agham, Shyok Village and pangong. (i am travelling with my wife. Is this route good? is it even possible to cover places i have written in one day)
15th morning from lake to leh
16th morning leh to kargil
17th kargil to srinagar
18th night srinagar to delhi

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Vargis.Khan May 11, 2018 - 1:09 pm

Hi Piyush,

1. I will not recommend Manali to Leh in a day if you are traveling with your wife. Add another day here and do this journey in 2 days.
2. Permits for Siachen Base camp are not issued that easily. See the link below.

https://vargiskhan.com/log/how-to-visit-siachen/

3. How are you traveling in Ladakh locally?
4. Days you mentioned for 13th and 14th are impossible to cover if you were thinking public transport.
5. Shyok road is OK to travel now.

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Piyush May 12, 2018 - 5:47 am

Please suggest where should we make our first hault if we start our journey at 5 in the morning from Manali. Is the time good to start from Manali because we also want to visit rotang pass on our way to leh

In and around Leh we are traveling on hiere bullet. Please suggest which bullet will be fine and what should we check before riding it to nubra warshi and pangong via aghem and shoyk.

How do you suggest we should plan for 13 and 14. My plan was to leave Leh early on 13 visit kardunga la panamik warshi and stay in khalsar on 13 night and 14 morning visit Dikshit and turtuk and move forward to pangong vis aghem…

Do we need to carry extra fuel or we will get the fuel in hunder. What about the luggage. We want to check out the room on 13 morning in Leh..do bullets have something to keep luggage..

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Vargis.Khan May 12, 2018 - 6:22 am

1. Break the journey at either Keylong or Sarchu. You do not have to start by 5 from Manali, start after sunrise and you will still easily make it to these places.
2.If you have a pillion then opt for a 500CC Enfield
3. You will probably do only Leh to Diskit on 13th and then Diskit to Pangong via Shyok on 14th.
4. If you want, you can ask the rental agency to provide the motorcycle with luggage carrier.
5. For fuel, please see the post below.
https://vargiskhan.com/log/fuel-availability-in-leh-ladakh-manage/

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Dev.N May 8, 2018 - 10:40 am

Excellent info. I was hoping if I can save a day. Roads looked quite good in the photos. If you can remember, I will be traveling alone on my Xtreme, now the query is can I take this route in July 2nd week? And is there a possibility of not getting permit for a lone rider?

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Vargis.Khan May 8, 2018 - 6:04 pm

Yes to both your questions. You can travel solo and can get a solo permit as well.

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Subhas Ghosh , Calcutta May 5, 2018 - 3:12 pm

Hi Vargis,
I have read throughly your blog very carefully. very nice description. I have some queries . I have planned to travel to Pangong from Nubra via Agham-Shayok road on 27 th July , 2018. Will it be possible by 14 seater Tempo Traveller and Mahindra Xylo car.
We will be travelling by two Tempo Trevellers and One Xylo car.
Please inform me.

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Vargis.Khan May 6, 2018 - 2:47 am

Hi Subhas, Yes it will be possible to travel by Tempo Travelers and Xylo Car.

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H J May 7, 2018 - 8:53 am

“Pangong from Nubra via Agham-Shayok road” can this be done ??

As much as i know after reading your posts, that Agham Shyok is not allowed this year… and i had to drop this route

pls revert.. if this route is allowed even i would try this route.

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Vargis.Khan May 7, 2018 - 4:51 pm

As of now this route is open and it looks it will remain so. You can travel on it.

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Subhas Ghosh , Calcutta May 7, 2018 - 9:11 am

Thank You Mr Vargis Khan. I will write to you if further any queries occur.

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Vargis.Khan May 7, 2018 - 4:50 pm

You are welcome Mr. Ghosh

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Vatsal mody April 29, 2018 - 11:56 am

Dear mr. vargis,
I am Planning nubra valley, night halt at hunder on 27th june 2018.
Should i go back to leh on 28th and start on 29th for pangong lake or i can directly drive through agham-shyok road on 29th june 2018? Kindly advice so can book hotel accordingly. Thanks

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Vargis.Khan April 30, 2018 - 7:27 pm

Hello Mr. Mody,

Permits for Shyok road this year are really dicey. There are talks that Army may not allow people to go this way at all. However the permits are being given right now, they have not stopped anyone yet. Really hard to predict June as of now but I will advise that you plan coming back to Leh and then going to Pangong.

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Ravi April 28, 2018 - 7:01 pm

What about August end? I’m planning to take this route on 25th-26th August. We’re group of 5, so mostly 3 RE.

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Vargis.Khan April 30, 2018 - 7:36 pm

You can travel on it in August as long as you have the permits.

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Rohit May 25, 2018 - 12:19 pm

How do we get the permit for August ? Is it necessary to take permit for Indian Tourist ?

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Ashik Kumar April 27, 2018 - 3:07 am

I am planning to go by Nubra -Pangyong via shaok vallry on 11 of May. Kindly let me know the condition of the route Vargisji

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Ashik Kumar April 27, 2018 - 3:09 am

it will be very useful

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Vargis.Khan April 27, 2018 - 1:38 pm

It is open right now and OK to travel, nothing too bad.

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Takahiro Sakaki April 26, 2018 - 6:32 am

Hi Vargis san,

I’m solo budget traveler and will visit Ladakh 28/Apr- 6/May.
Is it possible to catch shared or tourist Jeep at Deskit to Pangong via Agham Shyok Road? Otherwise need to charter the jeep or join the tour from Leh?

Kind Regards

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Vargis.Khan April 26, 2018 - 5:00 pm

Hi Takahiro San,

There is no public transport available on Shyok road and your only option is to hitch a ride with someone going that way. Also, this entire route right now is under a lot of talks and it is highly possible that they may keep it closed entirely for tourists this season. As of now it is open though.

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Takahiro Sakaki April 27, 2018 - 11:31 am

Many thanks for yours above.
Will try yo hitch at Deskit if cannot find suitable tour or shared jeep from Leh.

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Vargis.Khan April 27, 2018 - 1:20 pm

You are welcome. In tourist season, you should be able to find a ride though. Lot of people travel to both Nubra and Pangong.

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Takahiro Sakaki May 13, 2018 - 4:51 pm

Hi Vargis san,

I could not find suitable 2n/3d tour for Nubra-Pangong due to travel agency whom I consulted was unable to contact while I was in Leh and another Japanese travel agency’s misleading. Also refuesed by Shared Jeep driver to go to Deskit from Leh by single foreigner even though I already had permission. Therefore finally took 1day tour to Pangong and 2days to Nubra separatelly.

However I’d like to share the information for other travelers who want visit Nubra Valley and Pangong Lake via Shyok Road in this season.
1. Many travelers took this route and 2WD normal tourist car is able to pass the Shyok road and it takes about 4hours between Hundar and Spangmik.
2. Apr-May and Sep-Oct seems OK for Shyok Road. However the road should be closed during Jun-Aug depends on river condition.
Also early May was bit too early to visit Nubra and Pangong for beautiful scenary with Green and stucked 1-2hours at Khardung La due to snow fall.
3. As of 30th Apr, Solo foreigner was not allowed to visit Nubra valley nor Pangon lake with local bus or shared jeep (Must be more than two foreign travelers and not sure with motor cycle) due to one of travel agency in Leh had dishonest receipt of ILP couple weeks ago.

Hope you could update above information.

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Vargis.Khan May 15, 2018 - 5:49 pm

Hello Takahiro San – Thank you so much for sharing this information. I will definitely update it. Did you have any problem getting your permits?

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Takahiro Sakaki May 16, 2018 - 1:57 am

Good day,
No, no problem for getting ILP except the office was closed Sun & Mon due to Buddha’s birthday. Problem was single foreign traveler is not allowed to visit Nubra Valley with public transportation and had to find out another foreign traveler in the same shared jeep or local bus.

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Vargis.Khan May 16, 2018 - 3:58 am

Any recommendations for travel agents that you worked with? And most of all, how did you like Ladakh? I would love to see some pictures if you would not mind sharing.

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Amol April 16, 2018 - 5:01 pm

Hi Vargis
Thanks for your block. I am planning Leh in 2nd week of june. How safe it will be to use Nubra-Pangong route?
Amol

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Vargis.Khan April 16, 2018 - 7:54 pm

Shyok road is quite safe now, OK to go but there is a high chance that it may remain closed this year. Nothing concrete though, for now it is open.

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Tanvi Taneja April 12, 2018 - 1:02 pm

Hi Mr. Khan
Your blog has been a source of much inspiration for me and I’m finally planning a trip to Leh this month. Unfortunately we’re really pressed for time, and can manage just 3 nights and 3 days right now. We’re planning to go on the 21st of April from Delhi and back on 24th. Here’s what we’ve planned:
Day 1, 21st – Del to Leh (flight) – Acclimatise, local sightseeing, stay there
Day 2, early morning Leh – Nubra – See Hunder & Diskit and spend the night there
Day 3, early morning Nubra – Pangong via Agham Shyok spend a few hours then Pangong – leh
Day 4 Leh – Delhi

A few people are advising against this and are suggesting this:
Day 1, 21st – Del to Leh (flight) – Acclimatise, local sightseeing, stay there
Day 2, early morning Leh – Nubra – See Hunder & Diskit and spend the night there
Day 3, early morning Nubra – leh, local sightseeing – magnetic hill etc.
Day 4 Leh – Delhi

What would you recommend? I know it’s too short a time, but believe me, if I could have I would have, we just really want to go once and hopefully sometime in the future we’ll be able to go for a longer time.

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Vargis.Khan April 13, 2018 - 7:14 pm

Hello Ms. Taneja,

Thank you for your kind words. I appreciate it. Take a look at this article. It will answer most of your questions about a 3 days trip.

https://vargiskhan.com/log/ladakh-in-3-days-plan-trip/

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Vargis.Khan April 13, 2018 - 7:17 pm

Also, do not plan anything on the Shyok route. It may remain closed this year completely.

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Shahina April 6, 2018 - 8:52 am

Hi Vargis Sir,

Would you be able to give an idea whether Agham Shyok road for nubra to Pangong will be open in first week of May-18?

Thanks,
Shahina

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Vargis.Khan April 7, 2018 - 10:02 pm

Hello Shahina – It is open even right now.

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Himanshu Jain March 30, 2018 - 2:41 pm

Varghis Sir,

We are a couple travelling to Leh in July 1st week.

Planning for 8 days trip and we will be travelling on single 500CC RE :

We have two route options

Route Option I :

Day 1st – Arrive leh , Hotel + Market (Acclimatization).

Day 2nd – Bike ride for lamayuru , enroute visit to Hall of fame , Magnetic Hill , Gurudwara, Alchi monestry , Lamayuru monestry . (overnight @ lamayuru / alchi)

Day 3rd – Lamayuru to leh via same route and stop at sangam for rafting and back to leh. (night stay at Leh)

Day 4th – Leh – Nubra via Khardong la pass.(night stay at Hunder)

Day 5th – Nubra valley : Panamik (night stay at Khalsar)

Day 6th – Nubra Valley to Pangong via Shayok.

Should we be doing this ? as we are couple on single bike

Day 7th – Panong to leh via Changla pass.

Day 8th – Fly back.

Route Option II :

Day 1st – Arrive leh , Hotel + Market (Acclimatization).

Day 2nd – Bike ride for lamayuru , enroute visit to Hall of fame , Magnetic Hill , Gurudwara, Alchi monestry , Lamayuru monestry . (overnight @ lamayuru / alchi)

Day 3rd – Lamayuru to leh via same route and stop at sangam for rafting and back to leh. (night stay at Leh)

Day 4th – Leh – Nubra via Khardong la pass.(night stay at Hunder)

Day 5th – Nubra valley : Panamik Return to Leh (night stay at Leh)

Day 6th – One day at Leh

Day 7th – Panong to leh via Hemis (Night Stay at Pangong)

Day 8th – Pangong to Leh (Reach Leh by Afternoon).

Day 9th – Fly back.

Pls suggest which is better choice to make ??

Pls confirm whether Petrol Pumps will be available at sufficiently if route I is opted for ?

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Vargis.Khan March 30, 2018 - 9:59 pm

Hi Himanshu,

Your first choice is better. Definitely go for that. Agham Shyok road is quite OK to travel on now.

As for the petrol pumps, take a look at this post please. Should answer all your queries.

https://vargiskhan.com/log/fuel-availability-in-leh-ladakh-manage/

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Tamoghno December 28, 2017 - 11:39 am

Hello Vargis sir, I want to take my Pulsar RS 200ABS from Disket to Pangong through the Agham Shyok route in mid September & will ride solo….will my journey be advisable???

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Vargis.Khan January 2, 2018 - 8:27 pm

Hello Tamoghno – Yes you can definitely travel on the Agham Shyok road by your Pulsar. The road condition of this road now is much better.

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SANJAY WAHI September 10, 2017 - 7:28 am

Took us under 5 hours (including short breaks) from Hunder,Nubra to Pangong via Agham, Shyok on September 3, 2017 by Innova. A very scenic route and the road conditions were mainly excellent except 3 – 4 small sections which is understandable in such remote areas. Would highly recommend this route.

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Vargis.Khan September 10, 2017 - 7:58 am

Thanks Sanjay Bhai for sharing the feedback. How did Innova perform on the route?

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Sangbaran Goswami September 14, 2017 - 7:17 am

Dear Sanjay,

I want to take this route on 26th Sept in XUV .Just want to know did you tackle any strong obstacles like river crossing during first week of Sept?
Regards
Raja

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Sanjay Wahi September 14, 2017 - 7:37 am

The journey was a breeze. Route is most scenic. If possible take an early lunch break at Shyok village…its so picturesque !

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Prodhar October 9, 2017 - 7:31 am

Did this on 2nd October in a tempo traveler. One of the unexplored scenic routes!
Hope this feedback helps.

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Vargis.Khan October 9, 2017 - 4:24 pm

Thank you Prodhar Bhai for sharing the update. Where did you rent the tempo traveler from? If you can share some details on it, I am sure it would beneficial for other people.

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Amit September 6, 2017 - 9:27 am

Hello sir, I have been to Leh / Nubra several times. But this year I decided to do Nubra -Pangong. I have 2 questions for you:

1. Any news about the shyok road? We will be in Nubra around 3-4 Oct. Any chances of this getting opened?

2. I was planning to do Nubra to Panong to Karu in 1 day. Since I do not plan on staying in Pangong as I will be traveling with my wife (who is a first timer) and it will be super cold at night. Can it be done if I start say 7 in the morning from Nubra?

Thank you again!

Amit

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Vargis.Khan September 6, 2017 - 4:01 pm

Hello Amit,

1. Shyok road is open as of now.
2. I doubt that you can do it Amit. Lets say you started from Nubra by 7, it will take you about 6 hours to reach Pangong via Shyok road so you will get there by 1. Some rest, time at the lake, lunch and you will start back by 2. Another 6-7 hours to Karu and then you also have Chang La to cross on the way. It may get dark by the time you return. Try to start even earlier from Nubra, by first light of the day, say around 6.

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Anindya Bhattacharya (Andy) August 10, 2017 - 9:20 pm

Hello Vargis
We will be at Nubra on 29th Aug. Can you give recent update on Nubra to Pangong via Shyok road? Is it closed or open? Can an Innova car go through this route?

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Vargis.Khan August 15, 2017 - 4:35 am

Hello Anindya – As of now it is closed.

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Andy August 16, 2017 - 2:08 pm

Thanks for latest update. We have to then back to Leh

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Vargis.Khan August 16, 2017 - 2:44 pm

You are welcome and right, you will have to return to Leh.

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Sagar August 8, 2017 - 10:35 am

Hello Vargis Bhai,

Your articles have been helping alot to plan my trip to leh, all thanks to you. I have few doubts
1. Im planning to visit leh on 16th aug and hitting the road from Nubra-Pangong. I will be travelling on Bullet 500cc rented bikes. Which route would you suggest me ? Nubra-Wari La-Pangong or Nubra-Agam-Shyok-Pangong ?
2. We are 6 and rented three Bullet 500cc, will that be a problem ? We will be riding light, not much baggage so what is your take on this ?

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Vargis.Khan August 8, 2017 - 1:48 pm

Hello Sagar Bhai,

Last I heard was that Shyok road was closed. When you reach there, if the Shyok road is open than that route or else go via Wari La. The final ascent, last 15-20 kilometers of climb, of Wari La is tough so you will have to manage there. May even have to ask your Pillion to get off if motorcycle stalls.

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Vargis.Khan August 8, 2017 - 1:54 pm

Sagar Bhai I just had a word with my contact in Leh. Both Shyok and Wari La roads are closed right now and there is no ETA on opening, may not even open this year so you willl have no choice but to come back to Leh from Nubra.

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Anuj August 2, 2017 - 9:04 am

Is Agham Khalsar road open

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Vargis.Khan August 2, 2017 - 2:14 pm

Not right now

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sam July 27, 2017 - 3:30 am

hi vargis. we , group of 9 person planning to travel nubra valley to pangong tso via agham -shayok road in the end of september ,2017 .will the road be opened at that time

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Vargis.Khan August 1, 2017 - 8:20 pm

Hard to say Sam. Road is closed as of now but it may be open towards end of September.

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Manju July 26, 2017 - 7:55 am

Hi, we are group of 8 people traveling in two cars. We are planning to explore that road via Shylok to Pangang Tso. Any idea, if the road will be open by 8th August? Thanks.

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Vargis.Khan July 26, 2017 - 2:00 pm

Shyok road is closed as of now, not really sure if it will be open by your date of travel.

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kumkum majhi July 16, 2017 - 6:49 am

Hi Mr Khan,
We are a group of six ladies planning for leh-ladakh trip in mid July via Srinagar. Our travel agent has planned to take us to Pangyong from Nubra via Shayok valley which he said is 6-7 hrs. After I have read your article and posts here I am getting little worried about the route. We dont have time constraint so if you please suggest a better itinerary, it will be truly helpful for us to arrange the same.

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Vargis.Khan July 16, 2017 - 8:38 pm

Hello Ms. Majhi – If you are with a local travel agent and a local driver, then it is absolutely OK to travel via this route. Risk is more involved when a non-local ventures towards this road alone.

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Shabnam July 7, 2017 - 1:23 am

We are planning to travel to pangong lake from nubra valley via shyok river on 10 th of July as adviced by our travel agent .
We are travelling with kids .. do we need to re think about the route

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Vargis.Khan July 7, 2017 - 5:25 pm

If you are with a tour agent and a local driver, then you are OK to go. The road however was closed temporarily earlier this week after the water level in Shyok river started to rise due to all the rain. Do check that with your tour operator before you go this way..

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Shankar Hendre June 28, 2017 - 9:55 am

Hi Vargis,

It’s really nice article and very informative. After reading this article I came to know about the 2 routes from Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso. We are 4 traveling first week of August 2017 and planning to go from Nubra to Pangong directly. We are planning to hire a 4X4 SUV. Can we take a Agham Shyok Road during this time as we have few days trip only. Your suggestion would be really appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

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Vargis.Khan June 28, 2017 - 3:06 pm

Hello Shankar – Yes you can travel on this route in August but will have to rent a taxi from Leh itself. You cannot rent a 4×4 from outside of Ladakh and use it for sightseeing there.

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Akshay S June 26, 2017 - 1:10 pm

Hi..my wife and I are planning to leave from Pangyong lake in the morning after spending a night here for Nubra Valley around late July. We plan to book a private cab…would suggest we can do that?

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Vargis.Khan June 26, 2017 - 6:51 pm

Yes you can but do speak to the cab driver first about traveling on Shyok road. Some of them may not agree so please clarify this before booking,

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Sankar June 22, 2017 - 7:22 pm

Hi Vargis

Thanks lot for the wonderful articles. Much helpful.

I’m planning to do a cycling trip from Leh to manali
Dates – 15-Sep to 2-Oct,
Rough plan is
Stage 1 -> Leh – Khardhung village – Agham – Shyok – Durbuk – Pangong
Stage 2 -> Pangong – on the road along Pangong – Chushul – Thukje – join Manali highway near Debring
Stage 3 -> Pang – Darcha – Keylong – Manali

I have few questions,
do they allow cyclist on stage 1 route?
If yes, Do we need to take any permission for traveling in this route?
Stage 2 route exist? I can see road on Google maps
What are all the stay options available between khalasar -Pangong – Tso kar
Till when Leh – Manali highway is open?
Will the dabba tents available at Debring, Biskey nallaa, Darcha, Zing zang by the dates (sep last week) we go? Is it advisable to carry own tent?

Alternate plan 1 – Khardhung – Agham – Wari la – Karu – Manali highway – possible?
Alternate plan 2 – Leh – Kardhung – Diskit – until they allow – turn back to leh – Manali

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Vargis.Khan June 22, 2017 - 8:48 pm

Hi Sankar,

On a lighter note, for a moment I read Stage as “Day” and my immediatte thought was, “He is planning to cycle all this in 3 days? What is he, Superman?” LOL

Coming to your questions,

Yes but you need ILP for Stage 1 route.
To come back to Debring, you will have to travel throught Loma, Nyoma, Mahe Sumdo, TsO Kar and exit at Manali Leh highway.
Khalsar to Pangong via which route? If you are saying Shyok or Wari la then no option to stay anywhere.
Early to Mid-October and after this highway can close anytime.
Yes, Dhabas will be open. If you can, then yes carry your own tent.

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Vargis.Khan June 22, 2017 - 8:49 pm

Alternate Plan 1 – Can do it but no place to stay in between Khalsar and Karu.
Alternate Plan 2 – You will be allowed as far as Turtuk, amazing place and I will highly recommend staying there.

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Sankar June 23, 2017 - 6:03 am

Thanks for the quick reply,
Trying to become superman 😛
If we need ILP for this route, is camping allowed with our own tents?
If I choose Leh-Sakti-ILP required for
Have you seen cyclist on these routes?
Going till Turtuk and back to Leh is ~400km, is a good option, then I will have to cut short on the Leh-Manali highway (Have done last year Manali-Leh) and hop in a bus/Truck after Darcha

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Sankar June 23, 2017 - 6:10 am

Thanks for the quick reply,
Trying to become superman
If we need ILP for this route, is camping allowed with our own tents?
If I choose Leh-Sakti-Pangong, ILP required?
Have you seen cyclist on these routes?
Going till Turtuk and back to Leh is ~400km, is a good option, then I will have to cut short on the Leh-Manali highway (Have done last year Manali-Leh) and hop in a bus/Truck after Darcha

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Vargis.Khan June 23, 2017 - 4:43 pm

Yes, if you have ILP then you can camp on your own.
No ILP till Sakshi required. It is after Sakti that you have to submit ILP for Pangong.
Yes I have but mostly foreigners.
If you have already done Manali Leh highway then yes, cover Turtuk this time.

Also, next time you plan to cycle in Ladakh, let me know brother. I will join your. I have been there numerous times but never on a cycle, time to add that to the list too.

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Sankar June 23, 2017 - 5:25 pm

Great, will definitely let you know next year, in the meanwhile, I’m planning for Peo to Losar winter ride in december, will inform you once the dates fixed.

This year my initial plan was to cycle from srinagar to leh to manali though bit skeptical about srinagar situation. But when I saw a deal on Airindia at Rs 4800 for Chennai to Leh, everything changed. Now I’m flying to Leh and looking for options to fill first 7 days of schedule 🙂

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Vargis.Khan June 25, 2017 - 3:01 pm

Great brother … will love to join you.

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vignesh June 20, 2017 - 4:58 am

Hi
We are planning to travel in this route on 28 june. we are 6 in number with 2 rented and 1 own 350 cc bike. we will be traveling with 40l bag(bikes with carrier attached), fuel can and a pavilion in each bike. Please advice on this plan.

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Vargis.Khan June 20, 2017 - 5:00 pm

Let me know what your question is Vignesh and I will be happy to answer.

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vignesh June 20, 2017 - 4:53 am

Hi,
I am planning to travel in this route on 28 june. we are 6 people totally with two rented and one own 350 cc bike(with luggage carrier). we will be having a single 40l bag and a petrol can, along with a pavilion in each bike. What is you advice on this travel.

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Vargis.Khan June 20, 2017 - 4:58 pm

Are you asking in terms of carrying Spare fuel?

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Kuntal June 18, 2017 - 8:29 am

Hi varghis i want to go pangyong from nubra via agomshyaok on 30june 2017,can u tell us the exact condition there

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Vargis.Khan June 18, 2017 - 8:21 pm

Hi Kuntal – Well the road is open but is in a terrible state which it always is.

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Rahil Parker June 14, 2017 - 10:23 pm

Is it advisable to take this road during 2nd half of september? We will be traveling by bike a friend and me right now.. more could join

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Vargis.Khan June 15, 2017 - 1:08 pm

September is actually a better time to be traveling here. There won’t be many water streams, level of Shyok will be low so no chances of river crossings.

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Rahil Parker June 16, 2017 - 8:04 pm

Thanks a lot for your reply.. its very helpful in planning

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Vargis.Khan June 16, 2017 - 8:13 pm

you are welcome

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Vinod Jhajharia May 26, 2017 - 9:32 pm

Hi Vargis,

One of my Clients who wants to visit India is travelling with his wife and 3 kids(12yrs, 10yrs & 4 years)in the month of early August, 2017. I am booking an itinerary for him for Leh (Leh, Nubra & Pengong). I just want to know a couple of things before I confirm this trip.

1. Is it safe for the 4 year old in terms of the heights we will be traveling?
2. The lady is not very fond of treacherous roads. I am advised by a local travel agent(from Leh) that Nubra to Pengog route via Agham-Shyok should be okay. But from your post it seems like thats not the road to take if you are not fond of treacherous roads. I read a post of another blogger, who says the road is okay, he even posted a video of the whole trip: Any suggesstions here.

Thank You very much for your help!

I am based in Jaipur and own a small travel company, if you ever head this way you are welcome to visit our office.

Thanks Again!
Vinod Jhajharia
Bout India Tours Private Limited
+91-7737537037

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Vargis.Khan May 28, 2017 - 2:17 am

Hi Vinod – I replied to your email. Let me know if you have any further questions.

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Prateek Jalan May 13, 2017 - 5:55 am

Hi Vargis,

Just wanted to know which route is more scenic :

Nubra – Wari La – Pangong or Nubra – Shyok – Pangong.

We are travelling in June

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Vargis.Khan May 13, 2017 - 11:05 pm

Hi Prateek – Wari La route is more scenic that Aghyam Shyok road.

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Bhagyaraj May 11, 2017 - 2:58 am

Hello vargish… i just want to know whether agam shyok road will be open in june starting????? We are travelling one bike… one scorpio is it ohk???

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Vargis.Khan May 11, 2017 - 2:04 pm

Hi Bhagyaraj – That road is open already. Traveling on a Bike and Scorpio is fine, you should be able to do it.

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Pushpinder April 24, 2017 - 11:21 am

Hi Vargis,

We 02 male friends are visiting Turtuk(23rd May 2017) on rented 500cc bike. We need to Pangong(25th May 2017 booked).
Now we would like to travel via Agam-Shyok road.. We are having 02 questions:

1. Is it good to travel on this route?
2. Can we stay in Durbuk or Tangste? What are the options of stay?

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Vargis.Khan April 25, 2017 - 3:20 am

Hi Pushpinder,

1. Yes you can travel on this route. Just be careful, go slow and before you start, inquire with locals at Nubra Valley about the road conditions ahead.

2. Yes you can stay at these places. Take a look at the article below for accommodation at both these places.

https://vargiskhan.com/log/accommodation-at-pangong-tso/

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Arnabh Basu August 24, 2016 - 5:40 am

Hello vargis, Your website has been essential in planning our recently concluded Delhi Ladakh trip. Many thanks. Wife and I drove from hunder to pangong on 19th Aug in a creta (not 4×4) via agham shyok road only after speaking to multiple cab drivers. BRO hard at work but only in sections. Khalsar to agham road is fine, if narrow. 39 km stretch from agham to shyok village is a serious challenge – slow going, exactly as your pictures. Have to watch underbelly of car and tires but quite manageable (assuming driver is comfortable with general surprises of Ladakh terrain). Second half of this stretch has 2 or 3 treacherous water crossings (only time on entire trip where I had to clear the path of large rocks even for SUV). Cab drivers going this way advise crossing before 11 am or noon (nala and river tend to meet right on the ‘road’). Not sure if this rule holds true every year, less snowfall this year made all nala crossings less intense than some previous years. Remains one of the highlights of our trip, isolated, barren and very beautiful. Must confirm conditions with locals beforehand.

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Vargis.Khan August 24, 2016 - 1:00 pm

Hello Arnabh – Thank you for adding this valuable piece of information brother

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Vargis.Khan August 10, 2016 - 1:31 am

Hi Faizan – Click on the contact me link at top of the website brother to send me an email.

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Faizan Uddin August 7, 2016 - 5:20 pm

Dear Varghis

Appreciate the useful information provided by you via this blog.

We are 2 people(me & my wife) on a rented bullet and planning to go from khalsar (nubra valley) to Pangong in August last week (31-Aug-2016). Please give your valuable inputs as to which route would be advisable for us.

1) khalsar> khardung la> Leh > Chang la> Pangong
2) khalsar> Wari La> Chang la > Pangong
3) khalsar > agam> shyok Village> Durbak > Pangong

Based on your inputs would share the itinerary with you.

Regards
Faizan Uddin

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Vargis.Khan August 7, 2016 - 7:54 pm

Hello Faizan – Couple of questions, how old is your bullet? How good are you at riding it and are you planning to leave your luggage in Leh or carry it along?

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Faizan Uddin August 8, 2016 - 5:15 am

Hi Vargis
I will take a bullet on rent from Leh and will most likely be carrying my luggage. However I will try to pack as light as I can. And although I am quite experienced in riding as I did a solo trip on my pulsar 150cc to K-Top in May 2016, but it will be my first experience with bullet. Have never ride any royal enfield before.

Please provide me with your valuable suggestions.

Regards
Faizan

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Vargis.Khan August 8, 2016 - 5:22 am

If it is a rented motorcycle brother and you will have a pillion, then you need to come back to Leh and go to Pangong the next day. Do not even think about the other two routes. Wari La is way too much for a rented motorcycle to handle and same is the case with Agham Shyok road. There is hardly any traffic as well here so in case of a breakdown, you will be stranded in middle of nowhere with a lady. Do not take the chance, I STRONGLY advise against it. Stay safe, come back to Leh from Nubra and go to Pangong from there. Take a look at the following article,

http://roadragas.com/index.php?threads/the-mighty-wari-la.333/

Read through it and you will know what I mean. If this guy faced so much problem on his own brand new 500CC bullet (he too had his wife as pillion), then you can take a guess about the old rented motorcycle.

If you can also join at the forum, it would be good. Would love to see some of your pics when you are back from the trip.

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Faizan Uddin August 9, 2016 - 9:44 am

Hi Vargis
I am very grateful to you for all your suggestions. Can you please share your email Id. I want to share my final itinerary with you.

Thanks and regards

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Pritam August 1, 2016 - 8:35 am

I have traversed this road from Nubrah to Pangyong so via Shyok in the month of Jun 2016 in my own xuv. I can say it was one of the wonderful journeys we had in Ladakh. Apart from the gravel roads where at places you have to make your own, swinging bridges, raving river all along, golden mountains around ..gave the feeling as if we are in Mars. The difficult part of the journey is between Khalsar to Agham along the mountains where the road is quite narrow & a vehicle coming in from the other direction is going to put you in trouble …hence a good navigator along side is very very important.

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Vargis.Khan August 1, 2016 - 7:06 pm

Thanks Pritam

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