Initially it was a dream for me, since 30 years, to drive a car or ride a bike from Jammu to Leh. On second thought, I felt that it would be a real challenge if I could ride a low-powered two wheeler rather than a bike like a Bullet. I was following for many years the posts of Mr. Gautam who rode a geared scooter to Leh; and of Mr. Khan who was confident that a 110 CC bike also could make this trip. These led to my decision to ride to Leh Ladakh on scooter; a non-geared one. Two other reasons that helped me in this decision – non-availability of geared scooters now in India and my inexperience in riding a bike!
Leh Ladakh on Scooter – The Plan
The original plan was to undertake a ride from Jammu to Leh. If this was successful, then add a trip to Khardung La and if this also turned out to be doable, then why not return by Leh – Manali route?
Also Read: Necessary Preparations for visiting Ladakh on Scooter
My preparations were minimum. The scooter (TVS Jupiter) had 22,000 km on the counter; but was serviced 3 weeks before leaving. I had only windcheaters but bought a jacket, on the insistence of a friend, from Chandigarh. I carried a puncture kit and a tool kit, besides medicines for emergency. My luggage was no more than 10 kg and even this was carried from Jammu onward on an Enfield Classic; ridden by my nephew who accompanied me in the last minute. Mr. Khan wrote in his post to have a test run done in a hill station before leaving. I did that in the Jammu – Srinagar section! It was a dream run, despite bad roads between Udhampur and Banihal.
The Journey
The ride between Srinagar and Leh was also smooth, in two days’ time, with a break at Kargil. The difficult part was a 40 km stretch between Sonamarg and Zoji La where there was practically no road. After reaching Leh, I had an overnight rest before attempting Khardung La. The ride was smooth until South Pullu, then the road was in a bad shape for close to 18 km. Still, the scooter continued its climb, though the pulling was greatly reduced. It was a tough negotiation for the last two km but, at last, I and my scooter, were at the highest motorable road in the world!
I reasoned that, if the scooter can climb Khardung La, then it can also climb TaglangLa, Lachulung La and Baralacha La, all above 5000 m on the Manali route. And I was not hit by mountain sickness at any time since leaving Srinagar. So, I decided to try Manali route.
Manali to Leh on Scooter
I did this in two days’ time. On the first day, I rode from Leh till Sarchu where I slept the night. By next evening I was at Rohtang Pass. The ride was, understandably, more tougher, with cold, persistent winds, roads flooded and washed out with glacial-melt waters, fear of skidding. In fact, I skidded and fell twice, once near Kargil and once near Pang, and in both instances, escaped with minor scratches.
Well, this is my adventure story. This should be read in the context of my age (69 years) and health (diabetic and BP patient) and physical standards (65 kg). Perhaps, the light weight was a plus point!
My message for all those who still waver between dream and reality. You can do it. You only need to be optimistic, take some precautions and have lots of patience.
I plan to return to Ladakh again next year. However I don’t know yet where to – may be Lahaul and Spiti or Nubra valley and onto Siachen base camp. I hope I will meet some of you, new adventurers, on the way! And I hope to get encouragements and help from Mr. Khan and Mr. Gautam!
Ladakh on Scooty – A Few Pictures
I am sharing a few pictures of my journey below.
10 comments
Hello sir… will it be a difficult ride in TVS Jupiter along with a pillion rider? And in regards to gravel, bit scary to understand it will be skidding since my plan is to travel with my wife. Should we be too cautious? Is it too dangerous? Appreciate if you could share a picture of such gravels.
Dear Mr. Subramanya,
Having a pillion rider is not advisable because of low pulling power of a non-geared scooter. Someone had done it but with a geared scooter. You might find it difficult to negotiate steep climbs.
I don’t t have photos of gravels. But they are common on the road edges. So, stay away from edges or ride very slow if you are forced to the edge.
I am sorry for the delayed response. I was away in Saudi.
Dear Vidya,
Thanks for your message. You can easily do Leh by scooter. I was also doubtful before I proceeded but as I progressed, I realized it was not that difficult; even better than riding in some city roads!.
What you need to give allowance for:
1. Physical fitness: As you will be covering at least 150-200 km a day (because there are no places to stay in between), you will be riding at least 10-12 h at a stretch. So, you need to attain a comfort level of riding a small scooter for extended periods of time. Or else you should be prepared to break the journey. For example, I left Srinagar and rode to Kargil at one go. You may break at Drass and ride to Kargil next day. But on the Leh-Manali road, not many comfortable places to stay. So, practice long distance riding.
2. Knowledge of some trouble shooting is necessary. Like fixing a puncture. Fortunately, I did not suffer this but one can’t be always lucky. So, learn fixing a tubeless tyre with any puncture shop in your town. Or tightening the break cable. Learn by doing yourself.
3. Service the scooter thoroughly before leaving. A scooter that has run 5000 km already but less than 15000 km is ideal. I serviced my scooter at Goa and then again at Srinagar before venturing to high altitude. Put new air filter, oil filter and petrol filter.
4. Extreme care is needed in negotiating gravelly stretches. Skidding on gravel is very dangerous (I fell twice). Ride very slow in these stretches.
5. Break the ride every 90-120 min for at least 10 min. At that altitude the air-cooled engine does not get heated much but you tend to lose concentration because of the monotony of riding. Drink water, eat a chocolate and stretch your body before beginning riding again.
6. You can do it; so look forward to doing it. No other worries.
7. next summer is still far but if I plan to go, I shall certainly look forward to travelling together. I was thinking of Umling La this year but the situation in J&K was not conducive. I am thinking of doing Manali-Leh immediately after the road opens in May next year. The passage will still be snow-bound and that will be a challenge. I will be seeking advice from friends in Leh before that.
If any more queries from in your mind, please feel free to write.
wafar
Hello sir this is Amruta Kulkarni
I am student plus working in travel company naming Damle Safaris.
I wanted to ask if i can go to Ladakh on vespa. Please guide me.
Dear Ms. Kulkarni,
I apologize for the late reply – I was away from Goa and returned only a few days back.
The answer is – yes, you can.
Unlike earlier days, now the roads are fairly good, at times better than riding in some cities in the rest of India!
You should be prepared for :
1. small trouble-shooting, like repair of punctures. It is easy with tubeless tyres. A patch-up will help you to ride to the nearest village where you can get further help. Mechanics are not there everywhere. So, first get tube tubeless tryres fitted to your scooter, if not done already.
2. Since mechanics are not there everywhere, it would be sensible to have a scooter which is new but has run for sometime. Like a one-year old one with about 3000-5000 km on the dial. This means that you have experience with your scooter and feel safe that it won’t breakdown easily.
3. If you are attempting for the first time, then choose summer. I rode in August and the weather was pleasant. There was no need for winter gear and the only one I needed was a light jacket which kept the wind and cold out. Besides sports shoes.
4. be prepared for the monotony. You may not find living beings for several km at a stretch, especially in the Leh-Manali road.
5. Food. In the Srinagar-leh sector, you would find restaurants on the way (Sonamarg, Drass, kargil, Leh), so food is not a problem. But not in the Leh-Manali sector. Be prepared to eat what you get in the roadside dhabas until you reach Manali. Carry biscuits and chocolates. They reduce hunger and also nourishing.
6. Petrol. You can fill your tank at Srinagar, then at Kargil. These will sustain you till Leh. But from Leh to Manali, you need to carry petrol. I filled the tank full on leaving Leh and carried 20 more litres on the scooter. The distance was 400 km and I calculated 20-25 km a liter. Because of the altitude.
7. You might get mountain sickness en route. No big challenge. It will pass off. be patient. I had that one evening and then I was encouraging others whom I met on the way!
8. Never overspeed. Also be alert for gravel. For me, this is the most dangerous thing when riding a scooter. I skidded twice and fell on the roadside, but luckily, I was at slow speed both the times. The first time, I was lone and it was at dusk. It was a bit scary with a steep slope on the side. the second time, it was near a hamlet and the locals helped me.
9. Stop riding well before sunset and take shelter. On the other hand, you can begin riding even before daybreak if the road is good.
I was planning to go again this year but the situation in J&K was not conducive. I plan to do Manali-Leh sector in spring, as soon as the pass opens. That will be a different experience than summer which is easier (for me, now!).
sincerely
wafar
Hello sir
This is vidya Meshram.
It’s very encouraging reading ur blog.
I m planning active ride wid my sister to ladak from jammu in Aug or September 2020.
I have been twice to ladak before bt for trekking. Bt ur journey motivated me ..thanks.
If amruta n suman wants to join me plz feel free to contact me as I m also looking for group.
U can reach me on vids.93@gmail.com.
Hello sir
this is vidya Meshram .
Reading ur ladak journey is incredible n very encouraging.
I m planning ladak ride by activa wid my sister in August-Sept 2020.frm jammu side.
Ur blog really motivated me more..will definitely need ur guidance.
Dear Suman,
Thanks for your message. I am sorry to have taken time to respond. It will be a pleasure to ride together. In fact, I was thinking of riding to Umling La this year. It is higher than Khardung La and farther. But going there requires a bit of logistic preparation. The first is permit. The second is preparation, including hiring of escort vehicle. I shall begin working on these by April. If there is progress, I shall keep you informed.
Sir, I am really greatfut that u r just reach your dream… When I will decide to go Ladakh I will definitely want to contact u.. my mail id kolsumanprakash107@gmail.com & mob no ±919804652801 from West Bengal… Kindly call me when you fix your tour for Ladakh with scooty as I am also can’t drive any gear byke… So keep it in your mind
@Amruta kulkarni n suman
I m looking for group for ladak ride by activa in Aug-sep 2020.if u both can join me wid b wonderful .u can contact me on vids.93@gmail.com.