Pharkian Gali Pass – Pharkian Top, Kupwara – Kashmir

by Vargis.Khan

pharkian gali

Pharkian Gali, also known as Pharkian Top, is a mountain pass at an altitude of 9840 ft. It is located at a distance of 35 kilometers from Kupwara and 120 kilometers from Srinagar. The road across the pass connects the valley of Keran with the rest of Kashmir. The pass is also spelled as Pharkiyan Gali.

Pharkian Top is one of the lesser-known passes of Kashmir. Not many people know of it and hardly any tourists go this way because until recently, this pass was off-limits for tourists. Only the local villagers and the Indian Army were allowed to travel on this route.

But in 2021, this entire route was declared open for travelers, in an effort to promote border tourism in the region. On the other side of the pass is the beautiful Keran Village, located right next to the LOC. This village is significant because it is divided between India and Pakistan with the Kishanganga river acting as a natural border.

It is a side of Kashmir that is not yet on the tourism map, due to all the unrest in the valley. But things are now slowly changing and authorities are also making an effort to promote tourism in this area. If you are planning a trip to Kashmir and want to include some offbeat locations in your itinerary, Pharkian Top and Keran Village will be two good candidates.

Also Read: How to Plan a Trip to Kashmir – A Complete Travel Guide

About Pharkian Gali

Pharkian Top is a lot different than any other pass that you would have seen. While the rest of the passes are just the top of a mountain, Pharkian Gali is actually an Army base. The top of this pass, and the entire mountain for that matter, is occupied by the Indian Army.

Hence, photography and videography are not permitted at Pharkian Top. That is the reason why there are no pictures of this pass in this post except for the one posted below that I clicked during our journey to Keran Village.

Pharkian Gali Pass

How to reach Pharkian Gali Top

If you were coming from Srinagar, the route will be as mentioned is as mentioned below.

  • Srinagar – Sopore – Kupwara – Kralpora – Pharkian Gali

The entire length of this road is tarred and in good condition. From Srinagar, you will take the road toward Kupwara and continue to Kralpora from there. The ascent for Pharkian Top starts near Kralpora Market from where the top of the pass is about 24 kilometers.

The total travel time will be about 6 to 7 hours to reach the pass. From Srinagar, it is ideally a 2-day trip with a night stay in either Kupwara or Chowkibal. If you wish to, you can drive down to the other side of the pass, to Keran Village, and spend the night there.

What to see at Pharkian Gali Pass

The only thing to see at Pharkian Gali is the mesmerizingly beautiful views. Standing at the top, you get a 360-degree view of the entire valley around you. It is a region that is way too close to the border and was not even open for tourism until recently. So driving on this route is actually a thrill in itself.

On the other side of the pass is Keran. It is a tiny village consisting of a couple of narrow streets, a few shops, and some houses. But what makes it special is that it is divided between the two countries. Half of the village is in India and the other half is in Pakistan.

On the Indian side, the entire valley that this village is located in is called Keran Valley or Keran Sector. The river that acts as a natural border and cuts the village and the valley into two parts is called the Kishenganga River.

On the Pakistani side though, the River is known as the Neelam River, and the valley is named after it as Neelam Valley. At a point called Cobra Post, where the river gets really narrow, the distance between the two countries is hardly about 10 meters of water in between.

Due to this, this entire region was among the foremost infiltration routes used by the militants in the early 1990s. This is also the reason why the entire Kupwara District has remained off the tourist map for so long. Even now, you need to get a permit to go either to Pharkian Gali or Keran Valley.

Mobile Network

Irrespective of which network you were on, your phone will remain connected at Pharkian Gali. We were carrying Airtel and Jio phones and had a stable connection with 4G data speed. BSNL of course works pretty much everywhere in the country and works at Pharkian Top as well. We did not have Vodafone and Idea but I am sure these two phones will work equally well.

On the other side of the pass though, as you start getting closer to Keran Village, your phone will go off the network. None of the phones work in the village but in the near future, Jio might start providing service there.

How to Plan a Trip to Pharkian Gali

The best way to plan a trip to Pharkian Gali is to include it with your Keran Village itinerary. On Day 1, start early from Srinagar, cross Pharkian Top, and arrive in Keran Village to stay there for the night.

On Day 2, start from Keran and cross the pass once again to return to Srinagar if you are short on time. Otherwise, you can continue your sightseeing and cover other places like Lolab Valley, Bangus Valley, Tangdhar, and Teetwal. This would require you to spend at least 3 to 4 days in and around Kupwara.

Conclusion

I hope the information above on visiting Pharkian Gali Pass was of help. If you have any questions, you can contact me on Instagram and I will be happy to answer. You can also consider subscribing to my YouTube channel and asking a question there.

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32 comments

Projit December 4, 2019 - 6:45 pm

Hello,
I am planning for the Ladakh trip on April 10, 2020.

1. Please let me know if the below plan is feasible to follow that time? If not feasible then please suggest me by modifying the plan.

D1 Delhi To Leh
D2 Leh to Kargil
D3 Kargil to Leh via Batalik
D4 Leh to Nubra Valley
D5 Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso
D6 Pangong Tso to Hanle
D7 Hanle to Karzok (Tso Moriri)
D8 Tso Moriri to Leh via Tso Kar

2. Please let me know about the environment & safety features specially after the article 370 revocation on 2019.

Reply
Vargis.Khan December 5, 2019 - 4:00 pm

Yes the plan is doable. Removal of Article 370 had no impact in Ladakh. It is same as before there.

Reply
Projit December 5, 2019 - 4:19 pm

Thank you Mr. Khan. I was worried if some routes are closed like Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso or Pangong Tso to Hanle during Mid of April. Thanks for your reply.

Reply
Vargis.Khan December 5, 2019 - 8:44 pm

Internal roads in Ladakh will be all open in April.

Reply
Projit January 8, 2020 - 8:11 am

Mr Khan,
Please could you let me know about the actual & realistic travel time (hired car) for below as I don’t feel that from google I can have actual idea.

Leh to Kargil
Kargil to Leh via Batalik
Leh to Nubra Valley
Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso
Pangong Tso to Hanle
Hanle to Karzok (Tso Moriri)
Tso Moriri to Leh via Tso Kar

Vargis.Khan January 12, 2020 - 2:34 pm

Hello Projit,

Leh to Kargil – 6-7 hours
Kargil to Leh via Batalik – 8-9 hours
Leh to Nubra Valley – 6 hours
Nubra Valley to Pangong Tso – 6-7 hours
Pangong Tso to Hanle – 7-8 hours
Hanle to Karzok (Tso Moriri) 8 hours
Tso Moriri to Leh via Tso Kar 8 hours

mihir August 28, 2018 - 5:49 am

Hi Vargis, since me and my friend visitng for 11 days but will be visiting Khardungla and Changla on two different days so i should take permit for 2 day only right ? ( Local sightseing will be done during other days)

Reply
Vargis.Khan August 28, 2018 - 12:16 pm

Hi Mihir – You do not need a permit for visiting Khardung La and Chang La. Permit is needed if you are going beyond and in that case, just take it for the entire duration of the trip excluding the days in Leh.

Reply
mihir August 29, 2018 - 4:08 am

Great then ! Thanks a lot 🙂 can u suggest some not so touristy places nearby Leh ? wildlife, lakes etc ?

Reply
Vargis.Khan August 29, 2018 - 8:13 am

Sorry, let me correct myself here. You do not need a permit for Khardung La but will need one for Chang La. The check is actually before the pass. Since you are going towards end of season so there won’t be much crowd anywhere anyways.

Reply
mihir August 30, 2018 - 2:45 am

Sure. Thankyou once again. Next time would be sharing experience..leaving for Leh tonight 🙂

Vargis.Khan August 30, 2018 - 12:22 pm

All the best brother. Have a great trip !!!

Spandan Ray Choudhury February 21, 2018 - 9:57 am

I found your information over ILP is good for a first time traveler to Leh-Laddakh. On the behalf of our bikers group I want to know few things as mentioned below-

1) Only person need the permit or there will be separate permit for bike as well??

2) We are plannig to start from Manali and then- Hemis-Tsomoriri- Pangong-Leh-Nubra-Leh-Kargil-Srinagar-jammu & back. Is this plan feasible ?

3) Are bikes allowed inside the villages of Hemis national park? If not then what will be the suitable are for parking?

4) Owner name of few bikes are different from the riders name, will it be an issue while traveling in Leh Laddakh?

5) We have a group of 06 people(Adults) who are planning to visit and duration will be 10-12 days within Laddakh then what will be total price for ILP? As I will not stay every day in Pangong, Tsomoriri, Nubra Valley.

6)Is there any way to get advance permit? If yes then what will be the procedure?

Waiting for your kind response

Regards
Spandan

Reply
Vargis.Khan February 21, 2018 - 5:06 pm

Hello,

1. ILP is on per person basis, not vehicle. No permits needed for vehicles.
2. If you are starating from Manali then you will have to get a permit for your vehicle from Manali DM office to cross Rohang. Are you going to Leh first or heading straight to Tso Moriri?
3. I have not been to Hemis so do not have information in this regard. Sorry.
4. Yes it will be.
5. See the link below for details on charges and procedure of obtainining ILP.

https://vargiskhan.com/log/obtaining-ilp-for-ladakh/

Reply
Spandan Ray Choudhury February 23, 2018 - 10:17 am

Dear Mr. Khan,

Thank you for your response.

Please let me know the below-

1) What will be the solution for “No. 04 ” point.

2) We are planning to go Hemis (2N) first then Tsomoriri (1N) , after that Pangong (1N) & then proceed towards Leh. It will save no of days.

Regards
Spandan

Reply
Vargis.Khan February 23, 2018 - 3:59 pm

Mr. Choudhury,

1. Do the motorcycles belong to family members or friends? Or rented?
2. You will have to go to Leh first because for visiting rest of the places, you need Inner Line Permit which will be issued from DM office in Leh.

Reply
iwazz February 8, 2018 - 8:01 am

How to get ILP on Saturday?
I arrived to LEH on Saturday and Go to Nubra valley on Sunday
ILP office open on Saturday or Sunday?

Reply
Vargis.Khan February 9, 2018 - 2:49 pm

It will be hard to get the permits on Saturday. Best to call a hotel or travel agent in leh and ask them to arrange the permits for you. That way when you reach there on Saturday, you can just collect it from the travel agent or hotel

Reply
Farhana Yasmin January 15, 2018 - 12:29 pm

Hello,
I am from Bangladesh. Do I need this permit?
If so, how and from where can i get this? What documents are needed for that? How long it will take to get this? Is there any charges for?
We are 3.
Thank you.

Reply
Vargis.Khan January 15, 2018 - 7:05 pm

No, Inner Line Permit is only for Indians. Foreign nationals are required to obtain a Protected Area Permit. See the article below on details about how to obtain it.

https://vargiskhan.com/log/obtaining-ladakh-protected-area-permit/

Reply
Farhana Yadmin January 15, 2018 - 7:28 pm

Thank you. Think it is not easy to get PAP from Delhi.

Reply
Vargis.Khan January 16, 2018 - 4:58 pm

You cannot really get it from Delhi. The easiest way around this is to contact a travel agent in leh and get it done. It has to be sponsored by a travel agent and arranged in a group of 2-3 people. PAP cannot be issued for solo travelers.

Reply
Parth Khushu June 9, 2017 - 9:03 am

Do residents of J&K require this permit?

Reply
Vargis.Khan June 9, 2017 - 2:28 pm

No permit required for J&K residents and children of under 12 years of age.

Reply
monika roy May 24, 2017 - 11:32 am

This is very helpful. Can you kindly help advise if the same procedure is followed for foreign nationals too – we are a group of 7 with 2 foreigners planning to travel in Sep’2017. Thanks in advance.

Reply
Vargis.Khan May 24, 2017 - 2:28 pm

Hi Monika – For foreign nationals, you will have to obtain an Protected Area Permit, not ILP. Please take a look at the posts below for more details.
.
https://vargiskhan.com/log/obtaining-ladakh-protected-area-permit/
https://vargiskhan.com/log/ladakh-protected-area-permit-online-application-link-procedure/

Reply
Nikesh May 1, 2017 - 7:29 am

Thanks for the detailed info!

I have a doubt though. Would ILP be required for Tso Moriri if am visiting from Chandigarh-Pang-TsoMoriri and not via Pangong Tso-Chushul

Regards,
Nikesh

Reply
Vargis.Khan May 3, 2017 - 2:42 am

Yes Nikesh.You will need ILP if you straight to Tso Moriri from Pang. Without the permit, you can only go as far as Mahe where at the check post, you will be stopped and asked for ILP.

Reply
Nikesh May 3, 2017 - 1:18 pm

Thank you for the prompt response 🙂

Reply
Vargis.Khan May 4, 2017 - 3:14 am

You are welcome brother !!!

Reply
vistet April 30, 2017 - 8:37 am

I was actually relieved when I heard this. The permit process forces tourists to have at least one acclimatization night in Leh , and makes it impossible to plan several nights at 4000+ from Manali in the beginning of a trip. This will probably save a couple lives every year.

Reply
Vargis.Khan April 30, 2017 - 1:30 pm

That is a valid point of view too Vistet

Reply

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