This article is in continuation with a previous one and a part of my Ladakh travelogue. The post below talks in detail about our journey back from Pangong Lake to Leh City after spending a night in Spangmik. Please click on the links below to read the previous parts of the travelogue.
The journey so Far:
- Delhi to Manali via Bilaspur – Day 1 & 2
- Manali to Jispa via Rohtang Pass – Day 3
- Jispa to Sarchu – Day 4
- Sarchu to Leh – Day 5
- Leh City Sightseeing, Repairing Bikes & Shopping – Day 6
- Leh to Pangong Lake – Day 7
The nallah incident yesterday after Lukung had shaken the boys to their core. It seemed pointless to them to take any sort of a risk on the way back to Leh. Having rested nicely, they decided to push off as early as 6 am for Leh.
The couples decided to take it easy and leave leisurely by 7:30 ish. So as we woke up, the boys were almost set to begin their ride for the day. The homestay was devoid of any sort of breakfast option, so we hit the road with a grumbling tummy.
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Day 8 – Pangong Lake to Leh City
We bid farewell to our generous hosts in Spangmik and were soon on our way from Pangong Lake to Leh. The threatening water crossings of yesterday were as timid as ever and seemed more like the puddles on Delhi’s roads during the monsoon season.
Also Read: How to Plan a Trip to Pangong Tso from Leh
We saw a set of new and really nice cottages being built just on the outskirts of Spangmik. It could be JKTDC constructing them. I hope it is the former, as it would mean an incredible stay option just by the lake.
An abrupt eruption of colors in an otherwise barren landscape.
The cottages under construction, look pretty don’t they?
The final stretch of road, next to Pangong Tso
Marmot Country
The ride towards Tangtse was mostly uneventful, barring one incident. You must first understand the kingdom of Marmots and their cabinet ministers to fully appreciate this incident.
Marmot country lies in the green patch that runs all the way from Tangtse till Pangong Tso. They have a prime minister, a president, and so on. But the most important function is that of the tourism minister. The task assigned to this functionary is the overall well-being of tourists visiting their homeland.
It was decided about a decade ago that the minister himself would be the one to greet tourists, wave, and smile as they pass by. If some tourists stop and try to approach the minister, their constitution clearly states that the tourism minister must be brave and not move from its position despite all odds.
However, to be fair to the minister, it was also decided that it would stand and greet only at certain times of the day and not be subject to harsh sunlight throughout the day. Of course, winters would be off, with strict timelines for hibernation.
We were lucky enough to meet the tourism minister on our last trip to the lake and this time was no different! When we first sighted the marmot, we did not know that it was the minister. We thought of it as an ordinary marmot, and both the bikes stopped to get some close-up shots.
As we trudged carefully towards it, clicking all the time, we began to realize that the marmot may be special as it seemed least interested in running away. We moved an inch at a time, not to make any abrupt movements, and it was only after 10 odd minutes that we reached really close to it.
The Minister
The minister arose as we got too near, and we feared that we may have scared it away. But much to our delight, it stood up to greet us. Unfortunately, all those years of no exercise had rendered the minister lazy, and it sprawled back upon the rock it stood on, in a position which said: “I really can’t be bothered anymore. Do what you want and get this over with asap”
Encouraged, we inched even closer, till the time we were almost at a touching distance from it. We were all in two minds whether to touch it or not. You never know, wildlife can react in an unexpected manner. But it was just too cute, and the temptation to touch it increased with every passing second.
Also Read: How to Plan a Trip to Leh Ladakh – A Complete Travel Guide
Finally, Aarti emerged as the brave one and touched it. Whoa! NO REACTION whatsoever. The tourism minister did not budge an inch and was actually liking hand strokes on its back. It must have felt like a nice back massage I guess.
We all took turns doing some heavy petting, expecting the minister to leave soon. However, it stood its ground. Eventually, we got bored and after saying our goodbyes, left the minister to bask in the morning sun. Had we been in our car, we would have just taken it along with us, but probably the next time.
Clockwise from top left: From afar, a bit closer, closer, as far as you can get
Marmot or a sloth, anyone?
Aarti, the brave, does some heavy petting
From left to right, Gunjan, Harsh, and Aarti, all indulging in some heavy petting
The little marmot indulges now in some heavy petting
And then gets busy with some heavy running
Tangtse
As we climbed back on the road, an Innova screeched to a halt next to us, and the driver passed us a small blue bag, asking if it was ours. It was indeed ours and had slipped through one of the bungees. It contained our slippers, what luck!
The entire marmot thing had pushed us back on our time schedule and it was only by 9:30 that we managed to reach Tangtse for breakfast. We looked around Tangtse’s ‘mall road’ if you can call it that, and zeroed in on a cafe that seemed open.
We ordered a hearty breakfast of toast, omelets, paranthas, and Aarti’s hot new favorite, honey toast. When one of us visited the cafe’s loo, we got to know that the ‘3 Idiots’ team had had a meal there, obvious from the huge photographs plastered on the walls of an inner room.
Must say, the shooting of that film in this isolated place did have a major impact on the local populace. And why would it not? Had I been a resident of Tangtse, I would have been equally, if not more, excited at the visit of Bollywood’s biggest stars to my unknown village.
Also Read: How to Arrange Inner Line Permits in Ladakh
Bike Trouble
After a hearty breakfast, we moved on. We crossed the now-familiar Tsoltak, and began our climb to Chang La. While the initial few km were okay, Jugni started having a hard time in the final 5 km, with Gunjan having to walk on every bend.
Finally, after a bend where I had to ferry Gunjan on WanderB, Yeshu asked the girls to do the final stretch in a car as Jugni might give up otherwise. We stopped a Scorpio which had only four people in it, and they refused to help. Such people are not meant to travel on Ladakhi roads. Idiots.
Anyway, a Xylo came up next, and although there were already 6 people in it, they gladly accepted to haul up the girls till Chang La. As the girls later told us later, the Xylo group were cyclists and had cycled the Manali – Leh highway before taking a taxi tour of Pangong.
They had done the highway in 9 days, with stops at Marhi, Sissu, Jispa, Zingzing Bar, Bharatpur, Brandy nallah, Pang, Debring, and Rumtse. The question returned, when will I ever get closure of Ladakh?
Also Read: How to Prepare your Bike for Ladakh Trip
Water Crossing
As the girls sped off, we began our slow trudge up. Jugni was responding much better without the weight of a pillion, and it seemed as if we would make it to the top easily. But then along came a water crossing to make the going a bit difficult.
Although it had several boulders and looked a bit tricky, I was confident that I could pull through. Yeshu went first and crossed it without a fuss. I too had nearly crossed it when one damn boulder struck the side stand, damaging the spring that was holding it.
Also Read: Motorcycle Water Crossing Technique & Tips
Well, something had to happen to make the day interesting! I honked, honked, and honked, signaling Yeshu to stop for me, but he was too busy negotiating the bad stretch ahead. I stopped and started looking underneath for the damage done. A Jharkhandi biker on his way to the lake stopped and inquired if I was in need of any help.
That is one of the best parts about biking in Ladakh. Most people are only too eager to help. Meanwhile, after noticing that I was not following him, Yeshu also turned back, and together we decided to just tie the side stand with a string and get it fixed at Leh.
Chang La Top
We rendezvoused with our womenfolk at the top of Chang La where they were waiting anxiously for us, got an even stronger piece of string to further strengthen the side-stand, and pushed off.
The sun was scorching hot that day, and our energy levels were sapping fast even at the high altitude pass. We quickly moved on towards Sakti and were there in no time and without any incident. While sitting and sipping tea at a small dhaba there, we caught up with a couple of fellow travelers.
A group from Noida, consisting of a Nissan XTrail and a Gypsy, were coming from Nubra via Wari La and were headed towards Pangong. The rough ascent to Wari La had taken its toll on the XTrail, ripping the underbelly plastic bumper apart. A few army men, who were accompanying the vehicle, took pains to tie it with strings. They intended to move towards Hanle the day after, but I had my doubts if the vehicle with that jugaad would be able to make it even till Pangong.
We met up with another couple riding solo all the way from Chennai. They too were headed towards the lake and we warned them of the monster before Spangmik. By the time they would reach, it would become worse than how we’d seen it. They had also left their permits back at Leh and did not want to take a U-turn just to fetch them. So we gave them a copy of ours. Wonder if the permits were checked at all.
An unnamed pass towards the ascent of the mighty Chang La
WanderB poses near the banks of Tsoltak
The zig-zags during descent.
Leh City
Our ride from Pangong Lake to Leh ended at 3 pm and we landed straight at Mr. Sharma’s shop. I had to get the side-stand fixed, while Jugni had to get her back-rest welded which had given up on the way back. After a short stopover, we all headed back to our respective hotels, only to regroup later in the evening at Sunbeam Cafe on Fort Road for dinner and to plan the return leg of the trip.
Over some really delicious grilled chicken and pizza, we discussed the plan for the remaining trip. While Aarti was tempted to spend another day in her beloved Leh, her desire to do a new route (Leh-Hanle via Chumathag) got the better of her.
I, of course, wanted to go to Hanle, and even to Chumur! Yeshu wanted to do Hanle as well, but Gunjan didn’t, as this was her first visit to Leh and she wanted to sightsee and shop a bit more. The boys definitely did not want to go anywhere the next day and just wanted to chill in Leh.
As for Tso Moriri, Aarti and I were definitely going. Yeshu and Gunjan were unsure as they were a bit skeptical about riding alone from Leh till Karzok, and the boys were also undecided as they wanted to relax and take it easy on the way back.
Plan Ahead
Taking all the above uncertainties into account, the dinner yielded the following semi-conclusive plan:
For Aarti & I (finalized plan)
- Leh – Hanle – Day 9
- Hanle – Karzok (via Nyoma) – Day 10
- Karzok – Pang – Day 11
For Gunjan & Yeshu (tentative)
- Day 9: Rest at Leh. Do Thiksey and other monasteries (obviously Gunjan won the battle of Hanle!)
- Day 10: Leh – Korzok, just the two of them
- Day 11: Korzok – Pang (with the both of us)
For the boys:
- Day 9: Rest at Leh. Make a day trip to Khardung La
- Day 10: Rest at Leh
- Day 11: Leh – Pang
Since Aarti and I had a good 270 odd km to cover the next day, we decided to wrap up dinner and drinks early and headed off to crash for the night. The rest of the gang stayed late at the cafe to wind off their drinks.
- Journey Ahead: Leh to Hanle – Getting Close to the Border
It was planned that we would give a sync-up call from Hanle to the others at Leh, apprising them of our status and road conditions till Mahe. Very unexpectedly, Day 9 turned out to be the best day of the trip for us for a host of reasons. Please click on the link above to continue reading the next part of this travelogue.
Pangong Lake to Leh – Conclusion
I hope the pictures, travelogue, and information on traveling from Pangong Lake to Leh City were of help. If you have any questions or need any other details, please feel free to ask in the comments section below or at our Community Forum, and I will be glad to answer.
